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19th March 2016, 02:07 PM
#11
Thanks all, comments taken on board. 4 bye4 do u suggest i ditch the idea of transmission fluid temperature gauge and ivest in an EGT gauge first up.
Cheers
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19th March 2016 02:07 PM
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19th March 2016, 02:38 PM
#12
Patrol God
I tow my camper with the OD on as I can hardly feel the weight.
Next trip I'll try with the OD off and see how it goes.
fuel wise I get about 15ltrs per 100 ks.Towing a bit less around town
Next trip the weight of the trailer will be distributed better too
as its a bit front heavy as it is, but Ill sort it our
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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19th March 2016, 03:22 PM
#13
Legendary
Originally Posted by
watto1416
Thanks all, comments taken on board. 4 bye4 do u suggest i ditch the idea of transmission fluid temperature gauge and ivest in an EGT gauge first up.
Cheers
Sure do Extra high EGT and boost will kill the motor for sure.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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19th March 2016, 06:48 PM
#14
Patrol God
Maybe a larger trans cooler to keep the temps down when towing.
Pack the van correctly too not too much on the ball
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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20th March 2016, 10:21 AM
#15
Will chat to my mechanic . Id assume a trip to a specialist muffler exhaust workshop is needed for install of an EGT?
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20th March 2016, 11:19 AM
#16
Patrol Freak
you Mechanic should be able to fit the EGT & other gauges
as 4bye4 said, get all the NADs fitted, better to be safe than sorry
and
as you tow with an Auto, I would suggest the Trans Temp gauge as well, but after the other gauges are fitted
why....?
same same as EGTs, better to know what its doing on a long run towing
Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come
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20th March 2016, 11:32 AM
#17
A workmate fitted Dawes/needle valves & reckoned it improved the way his auto "felt".
He was not happy with the hunting before the modification.
Graham
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20th March 2016, 11:53 AM
#18
If ya towing I would ensure that your simple things are taken care of first. Ensure that your radiator cap is serviceable, towing with a compromised cooling system is probably a major killer of any engine (Bill Hewitt of Powerstroke Help on Youtube does a great example video of Ford Powerstroke engines destroying themselves simply because the pressure cap is stuffed. Towing creates serious additional heat in the system and this is where you don't want your coolant boiling inside the engine. Ensure that your coolant is protected by the highest boiling point possible.
My 2004 3litre auto has an overheat warning light for the transmission oil on the dash; think it shows up as ATP or similar - I wouldn't bother adding another.
Always better to hold an auto in a lower gear (multiplies torque) rather than letting it hunt. A lower gear will save you money as you have a smooth use of continuous power when hill climbing. On the flat tow in top with overdrive off unless it feels light load and then let it take it's head. Overall when towing lower gear the better when heavy loads are concerned. Remember too that the ZD30 develops max torque fully by about 2400 rpm - so aim for 2400 to 2800 max for good fuel economy.
Auto trans will heat up mainly when there is no forward movement but the fluid transfer is occuring. This is mainly such as being stopped but in gear. If one side of the torque converter is spinning and the other side is resisting (the vehicle is stopped or moving slowing - typically a FWD trying to drag itself out of deep sand etc) then the fluid heats up quickly. Using the transmission to hold the vehicle on a hill is the worst possible scenario. If you stop while FWD put it in neutral and hold it with the brakes - this allows the fluis to cool off. When I drove auto 50 seater buses, I saw drivers holding full buses on hills with the transmssion and they complained the overheat light would come on and there was this burning smell. Geese I wonder why! Also while u are going slow there's precious little cooling air going through the little cooler up front.
I reckon u are right to hold it in a lower gear when ever it is hunting gears. The converter lock up is a good thing as when it is locked (it must be a mechanical lock) the stator and rotor are travelling at the same speed and the trans oil is not even being used or heated.
If u think you've done a big hill and the whole units worked hard with a 2.5 tonne van on the back, pull over somewhere safe, look at the view and smell the roses for a couple of minutes - let the engine and transmission (in neutral) run at idle to cool down everything down - including the turbo. It's the old rule - Look after the gear and it will look after you.
As an aside you should never tow a heavy van in a manual in 5th gear (overdrive). Fourth gear is usually a straight through the gearbox drive shaft coupling - max rorque can be applied. 5th is usually a small side shaft with a physically small gear. This means all power is diverted through this side shaft and when towing the gear or shaft can easily fail. Many old Holden Ford Toyota sedan owners used to find this out - much to their expense!
I towed my boat from Cairns to Onslow last year about 5400km, (weight about 1.6 tonnes all up - but low profile no wind drag). Averaged about 14 l/100 - but on a hilly stage went to to 16 l/100.
I was happy with that. So yeah have a look at Bill Hewitt - great food for thought.
Finally make sure you have clean cool air going in the front of the car. When towing ensure there is a good space btwn you and the car in front - smooth laminar air hitting your radiator and transmission cooler is great for low temps. Stopping for just 5 minutes (idling) to take in a view - will lower all oil temps heaps, and give ya time for that great selfie!!!
Cheers and happy trails...
Steve
2004 Auto ZD30 wagon - pretty much standard...Just plodding along nicely!
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to steve4377 For This Useful Post:
Bigcol (20th March 2016), jack (20th March 2016), lagoonboy (21st March 2016), Warwick89 (8th July 2016)
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20th March 2016, 12:05 PM
#19
Just noticed that post by 3 doggies...Tows with OD on as he can feel it's light load. Great stuff, he's feeling the load and driving accordingly...Like a horse in the old days, they know when they wanna run, give the vehicle it's head and let it go...
2004 Auto ZD30 wagon - pretty much standard...Just plodding along nicely!
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20th March 2016, 12:34 PM
#20
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Bigcol
you Mechanic should be able to fit the EGT & other gauges
as 4bye4 said, get all the NADs fitted, better to be safe than sorry
and
as you tow with an Auto, I would suggest the Trans Temp gauge as well, but after the other gauges are fitted
why....?
same same as EGTs, better to know what its doing on a long run towing
Hey Col we should set Ropes up for an NADS installation trip. Just sayin
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 4bye4 For This Useful Post: