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16th March 2016, 07:17 PM
#11
Advanced
Appreciate all the input, guys
The exhaust has a 3 yr warranty so if it rusts out it's covered, and I don't live near the beach so there's no chance for salt water to get in and speed up the process.
How important is some silicone sealant on the gaskets, like RTV? And the heat shield on the factory exhaust is completely rooted, do I really need to replace it?
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BigRAWesty (17th March 2016)
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16th March 2016 07:17 PM
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17th March 2016, 06:58 AM
#12
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
UVB76
Appreciate all the input, guys
The exhaust has a 3 yr warranty so if it rusts out it's covered, and I don't live near the beach so there's no chance for salt water to get in and speed up the process.
How important is some silicone sealant on the gaskets, like RTV? And the heat shield on the factory exhaust is completely rooted, do I really need to replace it?
Again silicone will just burn away..
If it didn't come with gaskets then you'll either need to find some or make some..
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17th March 2016, 07:59 AM
#13
Advanced
Originally Posted by
biggqwesty
Again silicone will just burn away..
If it didn't come with gaskets then you'll either need to find some or make some..
Yeah, it came with gaskets but there's a note in the packaging that says to use high-temp silicone gasket stuff with the gaskets...
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17th March 2016, 08:16 AM
#14
Patrol God
it came with silver perforated 3 hole gasket
pretty sure I dont have the heat shield on mine, they are a PITB at the best of times
Any HT rtv should do the job for you. lol
Last edited by threedogs; 17th March 2016 at 08:21 AM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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18th March 2016, 12:30 PM
#15
Advanced
If you are really worried about it i would put some heavy duty high temp anti seize on the bolts as threedogs suggested. Wire brush it and paint it with high temp paint. But remember it is an exhaust and the first time you go off read half the paint will be scratched off.
If you really wanted a exhaust that wasn't going to rust you should have got a 316SS exhaust. Nothing wrong with mild steel 90% of exhaust around the world are made from mild steel.
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18th March 2016, 12:35 PM
#16
Legendary
Originally Posted by
UVB76
Appreciate all the input, guys
The exhaust has a 3 yr warranty so if it rusts out it's covered, and I don't live near the beach so there's no chance for salt water to get in and speed up the process.
How important is some silicone sealant on the gaskets, like RTV? And the heat shield on the factory exhaust is completely rooted, do I really need to replace it?
Sorry missed the bit about the heat shield before - yes replace it. It helps to stop your exhaust cooking all the other stuff in the engine bay. There is a thread here somwhere about batteries getting overheated.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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18th March 2016, 01:39 PM
#17
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
4bye4
Sorry missed the bit about the heat shield before - yes replace it. It helps to stop your exhaust cooking all the other stuff in the engine bay. There is a thread here somwhere about batteries getting overheated.
I'm personally going to wrap all my stuff when the time comes
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18th March 2016, 04:13 PM
#18
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
biggqwesty
I'm personally going to wrap all my stuff when the time comes
I question the value of wrapping exhausts for everyday use when ceramic coating is more effective & isn't overly expensive, particularly on mild steel exhausts where one occasionally reads of 'wrap- induced rust'.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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18th March 2016, 04:37 PM
#19
Patrol God
Have to agree on wrapping a daily driver I think more benefits would come from ceramic coating it,
A daily driver will condensate too much, a lot of negitives written about it.
I had some block huggers had and made a huge improvement to under bonnet temps.
Do some more reading if you really want to wrap the dump pipe. some with plenty of $$
probably wouldnt give a shite and tell you to do it
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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18th March 2016, 10:12 PM
#20
I wrapped the dump pipe on my pipe. Did it to the old 3ltr too. Worked a treat, i could put my hand on the pipe while the motor is running so it works. As for rusting. No issues there. The heat of the pipe quickly dries. The dump pipe on my 3ltr was wrapped for 2 years and the pipe was like new under it when i removed it. You can buy a sealing spray to coat the wrap too if you want.
My 2c.
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