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17th February 2016, 06:03 PM
#11
Patrol God
So basically if you've fitted 3" shocks into a 2" lift you'll first up need to extend your bump stops before you turn those lovely new tubes inside out..
If your worried about brake line length then it's probably a good idea to upgrade to a longer line.. while your at it a braided kit..
But if they are shocks suited to a 2" lift then I can't see the issue..
Stock lines are fine but fit spacer if you like..
All you'll do it undo the top bolt, remove bolt, lift block and insert the spacer and insert new bolt..
No need to bleeding or draining etc..
2 min job..
13mm spanner or socket.
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The Following User Says Thank You to BigRAWesty For This Useful Post:
MyGU8 (17th February 2016)
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17th February 2016 06:03 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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17th February 2016, 07:30 PM
#12
Originally Posted by
biggqwesty
So basically if you've fitted 3" shocks into a 2" lift you'll first up need to extend your bump stops before you turn those lovely new tubes inside out..
If your worried about brake line length then it's probably a good idea to upgrade to a longer line.. while your at it a braided kit..
But if they are shocks suited to a 2" lift then I can't see the issue..
Stock lines are fine but fit spacer if you like..
All you'll do it undo the top bolt, remove bolt, lift block and insert the spacer and insert new bolt..
No need to bleeding or draining etc..
2 min job..
13mm spanner or socket.
It's only 2" shocks with stock coils.
I was also thinking the same on braided lines. Not checked any prices yet, if affordable will get it done. I heard that the brake response better..!
As it involves removing the existing lines it would be a mechanic install not mine, so I need to include that price too.
2012 CRD:
DIYs;
RedArc Dual battery
Hifonics audio amp
Reverse camera
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The Following User Says Thank You to MyGU8 For This Useful Post:
BigRAWesty (17th February 2016)
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17th February 2016, 08:32 PM
#13
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
escix
It's only 2" shocks with stock coils.
I was also thinking the same on braided lines. Not checked any prices yet, if affordable will get it done. I heard that the brake response better..!
As it involves removing the existing lines it would be a mechanic install not mine, so I need to include that price too.
Safe Brake (sponsors) I think we're very affordable..
I think Winnie got a set.
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17th February 2016, 10:23 PM
#14
Legendary
I went to a brake place and had approved custom covered braided lines for around $50 - $60 each, depending on the length.
I didn't get all of mine done - only the main lines, and I then waited for my 40k service and fitted it just before, as I thought that if I missed any air in the lines, they were about to get new fluid throughout anyway. Easy enough to change over - just need the right spanners. If you do it yourself, make sure that you that you use the flare nut type spanners, so you don't round off any of the nuts or fittings.
Make sure that you add some extra brake fluid to the master cylinder, remove the old, and attach the new at the body end first, and let the fluid gravity drip through to the bottom end then connect the bottom end, and bleed brakes normally. This will keep air to a minimum.
GU PATROL 2011 Ti, with goodies...
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to happygu For This Useful Post:
BigRAWesty (18th February 2016), MyGU8 (17th February 2016)
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17th February 2016, 10:30 PM
#15
Originally Posted by
happygu
I went to a brake place and had approved custom covered braided lines for around $50 - $60 each, depending on the length.
I didn't get all of mine done - only the main lines, and I then waited for my 40k service and fitted it just before, as I thought that if I missed any air in the lines, they were about to get new fluid throughout anyway. Easy enough to change over - just need the right spanners. If you do it yourself, make sure that you that you use the flare nut type spanners, so you don't round off any of the nuts or fittings.
Make sure that you add some extra brake fluid to the master cylinder, remove the old, and attach the new at the body end first, and let the fluid gravity drip through to the bottom end then connect the bottom end, and bleed brakes normally. This will keep air to a minimum.
Thanks HappyGU, much appreciated.
2012 CRD:
DIYs;
RedArc Dual battery
Hifonics audio amp
Reverse camera
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The Following User Says Thank You to MyGU8 For This Useful Post:
BigRAWesty (18th February 2016)