Truck lift - Your opinion is wanted!

[HippoNZ]

Hi guys
I am in the process of looking at a lift of some sort, I have asked many outlets who all have an opinion on what I should or shouldn't do which has confused the sh!t out of me, so I'd like to ask yous (since you actually own trols) what you think. I want to make the lift suitable for 35" muddies.

Should I get all my lift from the suspension?
Should I mix it up with a body lift?
What are the pros and cons of each?

I am under the assumption I need a 4" lift to have room for the 35" tyres.

What has to be changed to accomadate the lift?
Besides, new starring damper, castor correctors, extended brake line. This is all im aware of at the moment.

Your help is much appreciated
Brett

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey Mate, sorry could probably find the info but what vehicle? GQ or GU? what Model GU?

[HippoNZ]

Hey Mate, sorry could probably find the info but what vehicle? GQ or GU? what Model GU?

Sorry good point, its a 92 GQ

[growler2058]

If it were me i'd go the 4" for fitting 35's i did but at the time went 33's (bumma) 35's will fit on a lower lift but defeats the purpose if they scrub before maximum wheel/suspension travel is achieved.(however i still scrub on the inner wheel arch when fully stretchin. My preference was to go with extended radius arms rather than castor correction, my belief that it was stronger. You need to tell your suspension what you want to achieve what weight you'll have etc etc. I said to my bloke i wanna handle anything Loveday (4wd park) got still havent done the "tabletop" at full speed need to brace diffs atc for that. I went a BIGO4x4 kit which used a mix of dobinson coils n shocks, 3rds production adj panhards etc and bigO radius arms. as well as extended brake lines you need brake bias valve bracket which mounts on your rear diff to get the proportioning back to normal, just a piece of flat steel 50mm long. To save a little you can use your rear b rake line on the front as it is long enough for a 4" lift

[Ben-e-boy]

If it were me i'd go the 4" for fitting 35's i did but at the time went 33's (bumma) 35's will fit on a lower lift but defeats the purpose if they scrub before maximum wheel/suspension travel is achieved.(however i still scrub on the inner wheel arch when fully stretchin. My preference was to go with extended radius arms rather than castor correction, my belief that it was stronger. You need to tell your suspension what you want to achieve what weight you'll have etc etc. I said to my bloke i wanna handle anything Loveday (4wd park) got still havent done the "tabletop" at full speed need to brace diffs atc for that. I went a BIGO4x4 kit which used a mix of dobinson coils n shocks, 3rds production adj panhards etc and bigO radius arms. as well as extended brake lines you need brake bias valve bracket which mounts on your rear diff to get the proportioning back to normal, just a piece of flat steel 50mm long. To save a little you can use your rear b rake line on the front as it is long enough for a 4" lift

I agree

save the extra money for the radius arms, longer control arms ect.

as for for body lifts,, they are a cheap and effective way to solve clearance problems. But, the chassis still only has a 2 inch lift

Lift lits gives you the lift you want but is more expensive

[HippoNZ]

Ok thanks so far fellas, I think I have an idea but what exactly are radius arms and panhards? I was told castor correctors were the spacing for the gear box to be dropped to align up with the drive line so they don't clunk? Is this true of just bollocks told by a novice?

and again thanks, really want to nail what I want to do before spending a fair amount of dosh.

cheers
Brett

[growler2058]

Radius arms connect ur front diff to the chassis and panhards centralise the diffs left to right

[growler2058]

If you Go online and check out snake racing or similar and have a look at a compete kit or each component hope this helps

[GUte]

I wouldnt bother with the body lift, unless running huge tyres (37+)

I would recommend fitting drop boxes if going 4-5 inch lift, much cheaper than new radius arms and often give a better ride.

For 4" you will need

coils
shocks
castor correction (drop boxes or radius arms)
panhards front and rear
adjustable draglink (centres steering wheel)
extended sway bar links (if you are running them, im only running rear)

may as well get a new steering damper while you are doing it

zordos do good kits http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.a...d=49&Itemid=53

[HippoNZ]

If you Go online and check out snake racing or similar and have a look at a compete kit or each component hope this helps

Thanks Growler, someone has finally got me understanding the gravity of upgrading to a 4" suspension. That site really helped for me to understand what the radius arms and panhards are for. Knowing this now I see I have a bit more saving to do lol
So pretty much you believe in spending the money and doing it properly by just raising the suspension? The alternative (body lift) sure is cheaper but will it just see me running into future ongoing issues? By the looks of things to get the job done, spring, shock, radius arms, panhards etc will cost me 5k...ooouuuccchhhh. One thing I have always said, this hobby ant cheap! haha but bloody good fun!