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1st February 2016, 06:24 PM
#1
Patrol God
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1st February 2016 06:24 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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1st February 2016, 06:42 PM
#2
Depends on the quality of the wires supplied if they are rubbish Just remove the covers on the back of the panel and solder new wires on the same way they have it but of a better gauge.
No need to include the reg on the panel as the redarc will do it all but personally I'd not remove it just put a quick release plug on it between reg and panel as it may come in handy one day to use without the redarc.
My guess would be they are 2x60w panel in parallel
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Hodge (1st February 2016)
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1st February 2016, 06:56 PM
#3
I am he, fear me
No need to change the panel interconnects (black box to black box) and assuming you want to use Andersons...
For dedicated BCDC use...
1 Remove the two wires that go to the Reg Input from the Solar Panel 'Black box' and fit an Anderson plug tp them (lets call this the Solar Panel Output).
2 Remove the two wires currently connected to the Battery terminals of the Reg and fit an Anderson plug (lets call that the Supply lead)
3 Remove the Battery Clamp fly lead from the supply lead and store for later
4 All you now need to do is connect the Anderson on the supply lead to the Solar panel Output and the other end to the Anderson on the Car that goes to the BCDC
Now... if you ever want to use the Panels as stand alone then as well as above;
Make up two short flyleads of 12 inches or so with an Anderson Plug each and attach them to the Solar Reg panel and battery terminals
To use the Solar panels as stand alone plug the Solar panel Output Anderson into the Reg Solar Anderson and your Supply lead into the 'battery' Anderson of the Reg and the Battery Fly lead into the other end of the Supply Cable
Last edited by the evil twin; 1st February 2016 at 07:03 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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Hodge (1st February 2016), Rock Trol (4th February 2016)
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1st February 2016, 07:45 PM
#4
I don't have a relay wired in to the 1225 on my camper. And i can have solar or car charging...The way Eric wants it may need the relay though...
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
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Hodge (1st February 2016)
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1st February 2016, 08:27 PM
#5
Patrol God
Ok thanks a lot for the replies !! Clears up exactly what I was asking...
Originally Posted by
megatexture
My guess would be they are 2x60w panel in parallel
Yeah it is a 120W array setup. This very model from this very shop.
http://www.lowenergydevelopments.com...lar-Panel-120W
Thanks ET !! Described it perfectly ... I've conjured up this quick drawing in paint... So in a nutshell I bypass reg panel (blue filled box) altogether for in-car bcdc setup....
In the diagram below the point where I have anderson plug will be at the bullbar somewhere for easy plug 'n play action.
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1st February 2016, 08:28 PM
#6
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
mudski
I don't have a relay wired in to the 1225 on my camper. And i can have solar or car charging...The way Eric wants it may need the relay though...
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Yeah mate exactly and which is why I got that redarc switching relay for purpose designed for this scenario. Well, I could have got any ordinary relay but this already had wires pre-crimped and lugged ready to go with everything needed.
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2nd February 2016, 09:40 AM
#7
Travelling Podologist
Looks like you have it sussed. This is the setup for auto switching between solar/alternator. Works well. Turn on ignition & alternator charges the battery. Turn off ignition & it defaults to solar when panels are permanently mounted or portables are connected via the anderson plug. I have the same setup with roof mounted panels.
Check out this link http://hobohome.com/news/?p=581 to determine what size cable to use between panels & the BCDC. The supplied cables will not be heavy enough & voltage drop will have a significant effect on charging efficiency. If you think that you may add further panels in the future, base your cable size on that, having it heavier than required at the moment will do no harm. I have found that it is worth using a 10 metre cable for portables as it often allows for vehicle to be parked in the shade but still have the panels out in the sun.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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Hodge (2nd February 2016)
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2nd February 2016, 03:53 PM
#8
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
Looks like you have it sussed. This is the setup for auto switching between solar/alternator. Works well. Turn on ignition & alternator charges the battery. Turn off ignition & it defaults to solar when panels are permanently mounted or portables are connected via the anderson plug. I have the same setup with roof mounted panels.
Check out this link
http://hobohome.com/news/?p=581 to determine what size cable to use between panels & the BCDC. The supplied cables will not be heavy enough & voltage drop will have a significant effect on charging efficiency. If you think that you may add further panels in the future, base your cable size on that, having it heavier than required at the moment will do no harm. I have found that it is worth using a 10 metre cable for portables as it often allows for vehicle to be parked in the shade but still have the panels out in the sun.
Your panels are mounted permanently on the roof arent they??
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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2nd February 2016, 06:58 PM
#9
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Your panels are mounted permanently on the roof arent they??
Permanently? ... mmmmm... that probably depends what suburb he parks his car in.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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The Following User Says Thank You to the evil twin For This Useful Post:
mudnut (2nd February 2016)
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3rd February 2016, 09:36 AM
#10
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
Permanently? ... mmmmm... that probably depends what suburb he parks his car in.
Any scumbag wanting to relieve me of my panels would need to be fairly committed & come equipped with the right tools, a ladder, a means to carry them away & spend an hour or two to remove them. Itd probably be easier to just steal the car & there is a big selection of less identifiable vehicles out there to choose from. (Touching wood).
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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