RB30 EFI Conversion

[pat in a troll]

slow internet warning!
for those who have forgone carburetion:
You'll need these components for EFI:

Map of ECCS (advanced technology at the time)

A chart of the inputs and outputs of the control unit.

fuel system. this is an r31 skyline diagram

very simplified air flow diagram. F.I.C.D stands for Fast Idle Compensating Device, it's what kicks in when the AC is turned on, to compensate for the extra load. the air regulator is like a cold start valve, it allows extra air to be put in to raise the idle. some people refer to it as the "electronic choke" but the control unit adds more fuel, the air regulator just adds more air for idle speed (more air past the closed throttle body). it has a bit of influence over the air flow meter too

The crank angle sensor (CAS) and air flow meter (AFM) aren't bulletproof parts. if the engine just refuses to play nice, these two can be the culprit. CAS lives inside the distributor

the all-powerful AFM

more stuff, I adjust throttle valve switches (throttle position sensors) by taking off the connector, loosening the adjustment screws, putting a multimeter set to resistance across the top two pins, and setting it so when the throttle is open slightly the resistance changes. (this is for manuals, automatics have about 6 positions of resistance so need a more complicated adjustment)

stuff

more stuff, oxygen sensor, if your car is fine enough but is just running rich and using too much fuel, pull this guy out, he might be fouled or just worn out. you can't clean any carbon off these, they always need replacing ~$110 bursons retail

injector control

timing control

idle speed control

fuel pump control

basic diagnostic chart for driveability

expanded


another chart

startability

self diagnosis. early self-diagnostic technology, useful, but it's not absolute gospel. can be handy for AFM and CAS codes

how to do it






i've got more from this book, i'll have to sort through it