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Thread: RB30 EFI Conversion

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    RB30 EFI Conversion

    This thread is specifically for those who have, or wish to convert their RB30S carby to an EFI set up.
    Last edited by NissanGQ4.2; 30th January 2016 at 07:09 PM.

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    dom14 (1st February 2016)

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    Rb30 efi conversion

    slow internet warning!
    for those who have forgone carburetion:
    You'll need these components for EFI:

    Map of ECCS (advanced technology at the time)

    A chart of the inputs and outputs of the control unit.

    fuel system. this is an r31 skyline diagram

    very simplified air flow diagram. F.I.C.D stands for Fast Idle Compensating Device, it's what kicks in when the AC is turned on, to compensate for the extra load. the air regulator is like a cold start valve, it allows extra air to be put in to raise the idle. some people refer to it as the "electronic choke" but the control unit adds more fuel, the air regulator just adds more air for idle speed (more air past the closed throttle body). it has a bit of influence over the air flow meter too

    The crank angle sensor (CAS) and air flow meter (AFM) aren't bulletproof parts. if the engine just refuses to play nice, these two can be the culprit. CAS lives inside the distributor

    the all-powerful AFM

    more stuff, I adjust throttle valve switches (throttle position sensors) by taking off the connector, loosening the adjustment screws, putting a multimeter set to resistance across the top two pins, and setting it so when the throttle is open slightly the resistance changes. (this is for manuals, automatics have about 6 positions of resistance so need a more complicated adjustment)

    stuff

    more stuff, oxygen sensor, if your car is fine enough but is just running rich and using too much fuel, pull this guy out, he might be fouled or just worn out. you can't clean any carbon off these, they always need replacing ~$110 bursons retail

    injector control

    timing control

    idle speed control

    fuel pump control

    basic diagnostic chart for driveability

    expanded


    another chart

    startability

    self diagnosis. early self-diagnostic technology, useful, but it's not absolute gospel. can be handy for AFM and CAS codes

    how to do it






    i've got more from this book, i'll have to sort through it

  5. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to pat in a troll For This Useful Post:

    dom14 (10th July 2015), gqsurf (20th May 2016), justy (23rd September 2017), mudnut (4th July 2015), Patrol'n (4th January 2016), Throbbinhood (1st February 2016)

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    With regard to bolting on a turbo and engine compression, I talked to the local Dyno guy.

    For a low boost engine, all that should be needed is low comp turbo pistons (concave or spoon crown) and a turbo compatible camshaft.

    As the RB30 bottom end is strong, then the original rods should be ok. Using thicker head gaskets is not a good option.

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