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15th June 2016, 09:46 PM
#11
Moderator
I would also disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to clear Code Errors. I have had to do this a couple of time in my guiv
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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15th June 2016 09:46 PM
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15th June 2016, 10:09 PM
#12
Originally Posted by
mhanly
Thanks guys I'll give it a go again but yeah the light on the button does not come on when it's pushed in.
The switch is just a momentary (monostable) OFF/ON switch which grounds signal to subtank control unit, the light in the switch is activated by the said control unit which grounds it when everything works, power to the light is coming from ignition via fuse 28.
Subtank control unit is powered via 3 fuses, fuse 24 (BATT) fuse 27 (ACC) and fuse 6 (IGN ON). Control unit gets the signals from both tank senders and evaluates the signals levels to acertain the amount of fuel in both tanks. Main tank sender also contains "tank full switch" which is in parallel with main tank level signal to the subtank control unit to indicate it as full.
If the levels are correct (subtank above "empty" and main tank bellow "full") subtank control unit powers up the pump.
If the unit detects a problem the warning lamp gets activated.
There are 13 pins on the subtank control unit (late revision) and when connected the following applies:
1. Ignition switch ON (~12V)
2. pump output (sub tank not empty, main tank not full, subtank switch activated 12V)
3. Ignition switch ACC or ON (~12V)
4. ground (constant) (0V)
5. sub tank level gauge (ignition ON, 0-4V)
6. main tank level NOT full (ignition ON 5V)
7. main tank fuel gauge (igniton ON 0-2.5V)
8. engine status (running ~12V)
9. sub tank fuel switch (ignition ON switch OFF ~5V)
10. sub tank fuel switch indicator (ignition ON switch OFF ~12V)
11. ground (contant) (0V)
12. batt (constant) (~12V)
13. sub tank fuel warning lamp (ignition ON, engine not running, no system fault 0V)
If you have access to multimeter you can easily check the system functions
Regards
Last edited by Rumcajs; 15th June 2016 at 10:37 PM.
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MudRunnerTD (15th June 2016)
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15th June 2016, 10:21 PM
#13
Originally Posted by
mhanly
Ok thanks guys, I'll see how it goes but the light does not come on the button either. I'll keep you posted
Does the switch light up when you turn your headlights on like the rest of the dash switches?
If it doesn't check that the switch has been plugged in. Someone may have had it out and forgot to plug the switch back in.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Yendor For This Useful Post:
MudRunnerTD (15th June 2016)
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15th June 2016, 10:49 PM
#14
Moderator
Originally Posted by
Yendor
Does the switch light up when you turn your headlights on like the rest of the dash switches?
If it doesn't check that the switch has been plugged in. Someone may have had it out and forgot to plug the switch back in.
Haha!! Wouldn't that just sh1t ya to tears!!
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MudRunnerTD For This Useful Post:
BigRAWesty (16th June 2016), Yendor (16th June 2016)
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16th June 2016, 02:33 PM
#15
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
MudRunnerTD
Haha!! Wouldn't that just sh1t ya to tears!!
I seem to remeber a similar issue with some ones antenna not long ago.
I to thought mine was stuffed untill I remeber I have pulled mine apart and have probably forgotten to connect it again.
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16th June 2016, 08:20 PM
#16
Yes the KISS principle lol
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BigRAWesty (17th June 2016)
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11th September 2020, 10:18 AM
#17
Sorry to dig up an old thread, I'm new to the forum and have spent hours tinkering and searching and cannot find the sub tank issue. I have run an extra earth strap and changed the module, i checked the switch with a multimeter and seems to work when pressed in (being momentary switch i think this is correct). There is no light on the cluster and I've checked the globe and the globe was fine. The switch does not light up at all not when pressed in and not when headlights are on. Ive felt the pump and it always feels cold. Any ideas?
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12th September 2020, 06:08 PM
#18
So i finally managed to get the switch to spit me out a code. 2 long flashes then 4 quick ones, I've tried to interpret them according to the fault code readet but makes no sense. Anyone know what it might be or how to interpret the fault code paper?
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13th September 2020, 07:34 AM
#19
SUCH IS LIFE
Originally Posted by
Deeno
So i finally managed to get the switch to spit me out a code. 2 long flashes then 4 quick ones, I've tried to interpret them according to the fault code readet but makes no sense. Anyone know what it might be or how to interpret the fault code paper?
Not sure on the code mate, I fixed mine a while back by disconnecting the battery for a while.
It was 2012 CRD.
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________________________
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WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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13th September 2020, 09:28 AM
#20
Thanks for the reply mate I've tried that a few times with no luck except for 1 time but hasn't worked since.
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stevemc181 (13th September 2020)