What Loctite Threadlocker should I use?

[qwertytank]

OK. So now which one to use? I have always thought use the Blue for everyday and the Red one was for stuff you never want to take out ever again!!... It is the closest thing to a weld without welding but…

The Line-up:
222 - Purple - Low strength thread locker, designed for precision metal fasteners under 3/4". Protect threads from rust and corrosion. Removable with hand tools. Temp range - 65 to 300 degrees F. Cure Speed 20 min. Full 24 hrs.
242 - Blue - Medium strength thread locker for fasteners up to 3/4". Cures reliably even on stainless steel. Tolerant of oil and other contamination. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Parts can be disassembled with hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 15 min. Full 24 hrs.
262 - Red - Permanent strength thread locker for fasteners up to 3/4". Designed for extreme environmental/chemical conditions. Especially useful for holding tight Grade 5 and 8 fasteners. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Localized heating and hand tools required for disassembly. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 30 min. Full 24 hrs.
272 - Red - Hi-temp/hi-strength formula. Suited for temperatures up to 450 degrees F. Fast cure on most surfaces including "as received" fasteners. Recommended for bolts up to 1 1/2" in diameter. Heat and hand tools required for disassembly. Temp range -65 to 450 degrees F. Cure speed 60 min. Full 24 hrs.
277 - Red - High strength for locking fasteners up to 1 1/2". Prevents fasteners from loosening due to shock, heat or vibration . Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Removable with heat and hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 60 min. Full 24 hrs.
290 - Green - Medium strength thread locker for pre-assembled bolts up to 1/2". Penetrates threads by capillary action: simplifies preventive maintenance. Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Used to seal welds and porous metal parts. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 10 min. Full 24 hrs.

For Assembly:
For best results, clean all surfaces (external and internal) with a Loctite cleaner and allow to dry.
If the material is an inactive metal or the cure speed is too slow, spray all threads with an activator and allow to dry.
Shake the product thoroughly before use.
To prevent the product from clogging in the nozzle, do not allow the tip to touch metal surfaces during application.
For thru holes, apply several drops of the product onto the bolt at the nut engagement area.
For blind holes, apply several drops of the product down the internal threads to the bottom of the hole.
Assemble and tighten as required.
For sealing applications, apply a 360° bead of product to the leading threads of the male fitting, leaving the first thread free. Force the material into the threads to thoroughly fill the voids. For bigger threads and voids, adjust product amount accordingly and apply a 360° bead of product on the female threads also.

Clean: If you put loctite on a greasy bolt in greasy hole it won't work at all. Clean all parts with loctite primer, acetone or rubbing alcohol. Apply loctite, assemble wet.
After applying Loctite, screw the bolt in immediately, then wait minimum 1 hour, better the recommended 24 hours. (Exposed to air it won't dry.)

For Disassembly:
Remove with standard hand tools.
In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length or because a high strength product was used, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250°C.
Disassemble while hot.

Random Tip:
Super easy way to get the loctite bolts loose WITHOUT the use of heat! Just put a dab of fresh loctite on the bolt and wait about 10 minutes and it`ll loosen all the old set-up loctite – yet to try that is if you can reach the thread that has loctite on it!
Don't use a blowtorch to speed up curing. The heat will destroy the locking capability.

Loctite User Guide

Question Time!! So I put it to each of you:

1. What do you used and for what application?
2. Do you stick with one or change it up? - Has Loctite cornered the market or are their others?
3. Do you go overboard to make sure it not coming undone anytime soon and then just us a super bar to get it undone?
4. Do you have any tips of your own that you would like to pass along?

As you may have guessed I have some bolts to set AKA I have a new touring roof rack and a RTT. Don’t want it shaking loose so I was thinking of using Blue Loctite, let me know what you think or is that just not going to cut it?

PS Don't be shy is ripping this apart I am green and the only way i'm going to get it right is be corrected.

[threedogs]

Use zinc plated Nyloc nuts on any external bolts.
Only use rated zinc plated bolts for any job
Thats just me, as for loctite I ring my mate
he knows every bottle ever made and for what purpose, lol

[qwertytank]

Use zinc plated Nyloc nuts on any external bolts.
Only use rated zinc plated bolts for any job
Thats just me, as for loctite I ring my mate
he knows every bottle ever made and for what purpose, lol

Why not Stainless?

[threedogs]

Could but Ive never seen a rated stainless bolt.
Probably ok for the smaller bolts, But for price
Id go zinc

[gubigfish]

I've used blue loctite for replacing the inlet when I did a turbo setup on my GQ not sure if that gives you any indication.

[BigRAWesty]

We primarily use 242 for everything at work..
Also grab a few tins of aresol primer / cleaner (green tin) and use liberaly..

Also stainless binds up much easier than steel so for long-term use you'd need to use never seize which makes loctite useless

[nissannewby]

You can get rated stainless bolts. Generally not over the counter though.

Stainless only binds up if incorrect practices are used. You should always lubricate stainless with something like nickel anti seize. And pay the little extra for 316. 304 grade is really no better than zinc plated.

[Hodge]

You can get rated stainless bolts. Generally not over the counter though.

Stainless only binds up if incorrect practices are used. You should always lubricate stainless with something like nickel anti seize. And pay the little extra for 316. 304 grade is really no better than zinc plated.

A definite must ! All our stainless bolts at work, on various powerline hardware MUST be lubed up. We generally just do it with electrical grease. If not, more often then not they simply cease up. Especially if done up with a rattle gone of sorts...
It's a common prank to get apprentices to do up a few without grease and half way through they hit a brick wall, then proceed to remind them of their weakness.....