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Ow good. I prefer my paper one. Nothing worse than have hands covered in grease and the phone locks itself just before your read the next step lol
It's not that bad. I just print the parts I need off the Haynes or factory manual. I've been doing it for a while, now pretty much 90% of the manuals are printed as separate chapters.
It's good to have colour photos, though even the publisher printed ones don't come with colour photos.
Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?
I removed mine and it's been running like that for years(one of the rubber ducts was distorted from the heat of the exhaust over the time) It has no effect as far I can see.
Make sure to tune the carby properly and ignition and fuel system is in good condition.
When those three things are good, RB30 engine purrs.
Only thing is that rapidly changing Melbourne weather, combined with dual fuel ideally demands regular tuning, which nobody can be bothered with.
One day it purrs, the other day it runs like tired.
Generally, mine's happy in cooler weather. May be removing the prefiltering duct bits does have some effect.
Last edited by dom14; 17th December 2015 at 06:26 PM.
Update: Well the Carby is off (funny, they always say never work under a car only supported by a jack, but they never say never work under a bonnet supported only by rickety metal stick).
It looks like someone already removed the little grid. Plus I found a sticker that said "Johnno was here" (or words to that effect)
Anyway, while it's off I'll empty a can of carby cleaner into it. Tighten all the screws, and carry on.
I've been reading through Dom14's carb rebuild from 2013, which was quite helpful (but more than I am interested in doing. I want to be back on the road this weekend!)
Yes, replacing the gaskets is a very good idea if you are not into rebuilding the carby.
The only thing is that where I live, there are no places to buy the gaskets on their own.
They only come with the rebuild kit.(which is around $80-100)
I learnt to cut my own gaskets with gasket paper.
Whether you cut the gaskets or you buy them with the kit or you are using the old gaskets,
it's a good idea to paste a thin layer of Lithium Grease on both sides
of the gasket. This helps it to seat better, as well as allows to reuse the gasket next time.
Most agree with the removal of the grid. Experienced mechanic here(Altis007) advised me to leave it alone though.
So, I decided to fabricate a complete new base plate out of a thick flat piece of aluminium(same thickness as the stock one).
I haven't fitted it yet. There's a power connection to the heater grid from the side of it. Make sure you disconnect that as well.
If you look at the carby from the bottom of it, you can see three bolts holding the bottom throttle body to the middle float body.
Make sure to tighten those three bolts. They come loose over time.
Last edited by dom14; 17th December 2015 at 06:48 PM.
Retain the gaskets if they aren't brittle. I have slipped a small ball bearing into the pre-heat flap vacuum hose, for the warmer months.
I will retain the dust collector when/if I ever get a snorkel. I am thinking of fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly. Also keep the deflector can that juts down into the inlet manifold as it is there for a purpose.
Hey Craig,
I didn't understand the bit "fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly"
About the deflector, you might have noticed my recent post about the deflector cup breaking into pieces and getting sucked into the inlet passages.
I was lucky that any small pieces did not get inside the bore. I decided not to pull the head out regardless of all the advice(didn't wanna do the back breaking job again. )
I'm at the place thinking the deflector isn't that of a good thing, unless they can come up with a material that can make it last forever without breaking into pieces.
Other thing is that I can't think of anything I have done to cause the deterioration. I did remove the EGR system though.
Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?
How on earth did you manage to get a left hander in down under??!!
Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?
You should be able to locate the bits and pieces you're after from wrecker. Check online.
I"m not sure the reason for the air filter being hard to find. It shouldn't be.(assuming you were talking about the main air cleaner on the top of the carby)
I didn't understand the bit "fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly"
About the deflector, you might have noticed my recent post about the deflector cup breaking into pieces and getting sucked into the inlet passages.
I was lucky that any small pieces did not get inside the bore. I decided not to pull the head out regardless of all the advice(didn't wanna do the back breaking job again. )
I'm at the place thinking the deflector isn't that of a good thing, unless they can come up with a material that can make it last forever without breaking into pieces.
Other thing is that I can't think of anything I have done to cause the deterioration. I did remove the EGR system though.
No argument it's there for a reason though.
The dust is collected at the bottom of the collector body and there is a rubber bill which you occasionally squash to let the dust out. Water can be sucked in there, as the rubber goes hard and the slot doesn't seal. I am currently looking for a small moisture bowl that can be retro fitted, to the bottom of the collector.
The dust is collected at the bottom of the collector body and there is a rubber bill which you occasionally squash to let the dust out. Water can be sucked in there, as the rubber goes hard and the slot doesn't seal. I am currently looking for a small moisture bowl that can be retro fitted, to the bottom of the collector.
Ok, cool. I still don't understand it, but I think the reason is that parts you are referring to did not come with my unit for some reason, perhaps due to LPG conversion has done some mods to facilitate the conversion.
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
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