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16th December 2015, 10:33 AM
#11
Advanced
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Get your MAF sensor back as a spare , clean it and keep it in the glove box
yeh, already done, thanks mate. My mate gonna get me the tool to replace it myself if i ever need to as well.
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16th December 2015 10:33 AM
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16th December 2015, 11:55 AM
#12
Patrol God
Yeah its a torq headed tool not sure what size but handy as, get your self some MAF cleaner as well.
This is why fitting a catch can is a good thing as it will trap most fumes etc , highly recommend you
do this as part of your NADS, Clean it every 6 months
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
juzzs8 (16th December 2015)
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16th December 2015, 12:01 PM
#13
Patrol God
T20 torx bit for crd maf . Not sure if Di is the same.
Tapatalked from S6
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Hodge For This Useful Post:
juzzs8 (16th December 2015), threedogs (16th December 2015)
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16th December 2015, 04:20 PM
#14
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Hodge
T20 torx bit for crd maf . Not sure if Di is the same.
Tapatalked from S6
Yes Di are the same just need to bend the air con pipe a bit to access it
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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juzzs8 (17th December 2015)
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8th March 2016, 05:14 PM
#15
Advanced
Got the old radiator tested. 95% blocked.
Good to know that was the problem. That as well as the clutch fan not engaging explains a lot!!
cheers again for previous advice.
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8th March 2016, 05:43 PM
#16
Patrol God
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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9th March 2016, 09:36 AM
#17
For anyone reading this post, if your engine is overheating DO NOT turn off the engine as this will stop coolant circulation and may cause damage to the engine.
The recommended thing to do is to put the cabin heater to full and fan speed to full to radiate the heat while running the engine at idle. Also add water to the overflow tank if required.
2012 CRD:
DIYs;
RedArc Dual battery
Hifonics audio amp
Reverse camera
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9th March 2016, 07:15 PM
#18
Juzzs8,
Deja Vu big time.
Just came back form a trip over the WA from East, up to Birdsville and home via Cameron Corner.
Before leaving truck was over heating just in normal driving. Water pump changed. No change. Viscous coupling changed... Apparently fixed.
I leave for my trip towing a camper trailer, under load, over heating. In Perth I took the truck to Natrad.. Radiator 70% blocked. After this never went over 95 degrees even under load and with ambient temp up to nearly 50 degrees.
Prior to leaving I asked my mechanic re the radiator and he constantly ruled it out.
One thing I did find is that my in dash temperature gauge was crap. It did not move but my scanguage showed other wise. Highly recommend one of you are doing a lot of traveling.
Cheers
Rainey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to rainsey For This Useful Post:
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9th March 2016, 11:17 PM
#19
Advanced
Originally Posted by
rainsey
Prior to leaving I asked my mechanic re the radiator and he constantly ruled it out.
Its weird how so many threads I've read mechanics have ruled out the radiator being the problem. My mate ( my mechanic) also ruled it out but changed it anyway just to do the whole cooling system and only had it tested because I had asked if we could see if that was the problem. He sent it away not thinking it would be blocked and was surprised when it came back 95% blocked.
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11th March 2016, 08:15 PM
#20
You know I trust my mechanic implicitly, but you know what .... Just like in medicine, if you have a specific issue a visit to a specialist might just be the thing to do.
I bounced it past my mechanic 3 times and each time he rationalised his decision, I accepted it.
I end up going to a radiator specialist and bingo....
I think in future I will go with my gut feel.
Cheers
Rainsey
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