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are you not keen on the tilt slides?? They seem to work well.
Not really tbh. When i go camping i usually stack stuff in the fridge neatly so its easier to get at, tilting the fridge will just ruin that. ..
Originally Posted by threedogs
Never been a fan of drawers ,I have had them and just found you ended up filling them
with gear you'll never use or forget whats in there, Plus the fact its very difficult to get
stuff from a fridge.
The drop down fridge slides are probably the best bit of 4x4 gear to come on the market
in a few years, be it a tad pricey$$$.
Even empty they are 50kg plus and weight being the enemy is probably why Im not a fan,
Ive seen all manner of storage systems over the years, yes they are well made but not for me.
It also restricts what you can carry in the back.
The weight issue isnt a big deal for me. Its only around 70kgs, the td doesnt even feel it, lol. Plus plenty of space to store stuff the better. Each to their own....
Originally Posted by nissannewby
There is a guy on the other forum who made his own drop slide for less than 200. He has posted all drawings with dimensions.
Yeah i did see this. When i come back from holidays i will be looking at this...
Picked up my 47L ARB fridge today with transit cover. Man this thing cools fast. I picked it up and plugged it in to mains to check if it was working, it showed 27c temp. I put in it my car, plugged it in and set the temp to -1c. Buy the time i got home, minutes later, it was sitting at -3c. Impressive...
So I did the body mounts yesterday as I was having the knocking issue under the floor at my feet, and it was worse when wet so I thought to change them. Even though looking at them in the car, they looked alright to me. I started at around 2pm and was done around 4hrs later.
I didn't get the rear mounts in, I just couldn't get the body high enough to remove the rear mounts, these are longer than the others...So I spaced them out with big washers. I will get to the rears at a later time as I know its gonna chit me if I dont do them.
The rear mount has two small bolts on either side of the mount too. Facing upwards so if you have gorilla hands. Good luck with those. Tip for this mount. Undo all the bolts for all the mounts on the car, except for the two small bolts on the rear, jack the body up and then get at these bolts. Have a look on your own and you will see what I mean.
The 3rd row mount you undo a nut, you need to remove the front seat and the mount which the rear outer foot of the seat mounts too. As you need to push the bolt up through the floor to get the mount out. The other mounts are a bolt going the other way. Why this is not the same is beyond me. It could and should be...
I should have taken a before shot of the front and rear bar clearances. Before, the bull bar was touching the body, and the rear, the guard was touching the bumper. Now I can fit my finger in there. Heres the after shot
Heres the old and new mounts... Second pic is on the front right mount. This I changed around 18 months ago too...
I haven't driven it yet to see is there is any difference. I can only assume there will be. If not. They're done now. Lol.
So besides the knocking did you get creeking as well.?
So all the knocking has gone... did you get the hose under the car then go for a drive.
My car makes loud creeking all the time and knocks like mad when wet.
No creeking, just the knock under the foot and other little knocks and rattles.
I took the car for a spin. Over the speed humps in my street is where I would here the one under my feet. All gone. and so are the other little knocks and rattles. I haven't wet under the car, I'll just wait til it rains. Lol Its much quieter and a little smoother to drive. Placebo effect? Dunno. But I'll go with it.
That first pic of the two mounts I put up. The old one has actually risen up a little. When they were in the car, you couldn't even see the gap in the mount.
So I got a few things done today. Since it was quiet....
Replaced two rear control arm bushes that were fubar with OEM ones. God I love my eBay special 12T press!
Why does it put the pick upside down????? Ugh.
Fitted the new, but transit damaged Tough Dog shocker cover. Bloody idiots posted the new cover, just in a post bag with no protection at all. So it obviously copped a beating when in transit. I rang Tough Dog up and they just told me to use a heat gun to repair it. I wont be recommending their product to anyone now.
And drilled out the ends of the sway bar and used 14mm bolts right through the rose joint and sway bar. As the rose joint uses those spacers so a 12mm bolt can be used. Issue is, the hole in the sway bar is about 13mm, god knows why, so the bolt has room to move around. So now, the bolts are bigger and theres no movement.
Annnnnd, my DSE 12v oven got a 6mm twin core cable upgrade with a new Narva plug and boy it heats up soooo much quicker. Now to do the other oven.
And the difference between the OEM GU Tie Rod and a Superior 4340M comp spec. Bitta weight diff....
Well I'm at my wits end with this front end noise.
I get it turning, it was noticeable most when traveling around twisty roads, going around left bends and then straightening the wheel I'd hear and fell the clunk through the floor, could be felt on both sides too. I approach a speed hump, brake then release just before the bump, I'd get another clunk. Going over the speed bump anything other than walking pace, the rhs would clunk and rattle, like something is lose.
Things I've done so far...
New tie rod, superior 4340m comp spec
New drag link, superior 4340m comp spec
Radius arm bushes barely six months old, including mushroom bushes
tightened up all front end bolts
Spherical bush in the panhard is barely six months old, removed it last night and checked it, all good.
removed the entire sway bar and did a test run. The noises are worse, especially under braking and going over the speed humps
Checked the radius arm mounting holes, one was flogged out by a bee's dick. Welded a washer onto this....
New body mounts.
Checked the wheel bearings
Checked the knuckle bearings and tension, all good.
The clunk I can feel it at my feet and occasionally through the steering wheel.
What I haven't done yet.
Removed the radius arms and checked the bushes, waiting on stock to arrive just incase I need to replace them, or one.
Removed the carpet and checked the floor for stress cracks.
Removed the steering dampener and gone for a drive. Doubt its this though.
Swapped the front shockers over from left to right. Might do this now actually....
I also get a awful crack noise coming from the front end, only when in 4wd. I have a feeling this is the CV joints. This crack noise has always been there since I have had it, but is more constant now... I will get to this after I sort the front end noise.
I have another set of radius arms here I might put new bushes in and swap them over to see if this fixes it. Dunno.
Just check tension on the top radius arm nut. Those mushroom bushes are shit. Before I ran hybrids I would regularly have to check them and could flog them out in a few trips
Just check tension on the top radius arm nut. Those mushroom bushes are shit. Before I ran hybrids I would regularly have to check them and could flog them out in a few trips
Tight as a nuns... I have a feeling it may be the mushroom bushes. But am waiting until stock arrives or the bushes. Its a really bad design using those mushroom bushes. I had a chance to get some Superior Superflex hybrid arms and I let it go and now they are gone. Bloody spewing I am.
If. I was to change my arms, is it worth going the Superflex hybrid arms, or just the hyrbid? I will be running a sway bar and probably get the Superflex sway bar too. As the one on it hangs down so much it hits everything and the Superflex is straight. No loop.