Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

So all the winch elecy points are cleaned, sealed and clean covered.




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[mudski]

Now I keep looking at my air box. It’s shit. I need to swap it out for a flat panel style box


This is my industry. Filtration, but, I’ve ignored the obvious for too long. Pod filters are shit. I really need to get rid of it. Time to investigate.


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[PeeBee]

Mark, do the numbers on the airflow, air to cloth ratio recommended for the style of driving and the anticipated dust load - this will lead you to what type/style/size of filter is required. This is air filtration 101 stuff. So often i see these you beaut air filters stuffed into a corner where they will fit without any regards to the engineering - and by that i am talking about pressure drop across the filter, particulate migration through the filter media, service intervals and serviceability - bearing in mind this is a whole minefield on its own - just how particulate is released to a satisfactory level one it is embedded in either a cloth or foam element is beyond me.

Flat pack filters may be cheap and convenient but they have limited filtration area. Looking at the filter condition in the photo suggests your filter is way past its servicable limits, so acknowledging your area of expertise I can see some areas look at. I run a filter on my chev that has been engineered - I did the numbers, and its based around face velocity and volumetric flow against the media being used - took me a couple of weeks to get the info from the filter manufacturer's - they have it, just prefer to catalogue engineer a solution to the mug punter aligned with what is the largest you can fit and what fits within the product catalogue. I have been in the industrial air filtration and baghouse design arena for 25 yrs, so know how to size and select a filter - unfortunately cars dont have the necessary space to accomodate the air/cloth ratios, so it comes down to frequency of service, which is easy to neglect. Hope this helps.

[mudski]

Mark, do the numbers on the airflow…Looking at the filter condition in the photo suggests your filter is way past its servicable limits,.

Yep. I’ve done the numbers and what I should be fitting with the amount of air flow my TD produces, I’d have to mount the air box externally. There will be an amount of compromise.
Flat panel filters aren’t the best, I know this. Cylindrical filtration is better for area coverage. But this K&N setup I have is no good for me because the Patrol sits unused for most of the year and the oil in the element ends up at the lowest part of the element rendering most of the filter dry and useless.

That filter Phil is actually not that dirty. I run a very fine mesh sock over the filter element for that added protection. Which helps a great deal.

I need to get rid of the aux battery to give me more room to play with. So baby steps. Convince the minister of war and finance that a lithium battery is needed, I then can put this in the cab somewhere, then try to convince her that the air box needs to go for something better. But funds are not as free as they used to be…

Food for thought.


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[mudski]

I finally cleaned up all the winch power lead contacts and got dust boots and covered them in di-electric grease.



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[PeeBee]

Yep. I’ve done the numbers and what I should be fitting with the amount of air flow my TD produces, I’d have to mount the air box externally. There will be an amount of compromise.
Flat panel filters aren’t the best, I know this. Cylindrical filtration is better for area coverage. But this K&N setup I have is no good for me because the Patrol sits unused for most of the year and the oil in the element ends up at the lowest part of the element rendering most of the filter dry and useless.

That filter Phil is actually not that dirty. I run a very fine mesh sock over the filter element for that added protection. Which helps a great deal.

I need to get rid of the aux battery to give me more room to play with. So baby steps. Convince the minister of war and finance that a lithium battery is needed, I then can put this in the cab somewhere, then try to convince her that the air box needs to go for something better. But funds are not as free as they used to be…

Food for thought.


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Good news all round Mark, and understand the real estate is always the problem. I filled whatever void I had with the filter box that aligned with the filtration area required and it was a bum in a bucket installation, far too tight for normal daily access and also a pain for the A/C access off the compressor. I have done a bit of rationalisation with the latest round and have the same box, but better clearance - just. The external 'dirt load' on your pre-filter sock will actually help you as its a common phase during filter break-in to develop that 'layer' - seems counter intuitive in some regards but its actually an additional filtration layer. The only time it becomes a real issue is in high moisture environments or when sucking in foggy air as it can soften and liquidise the dirt into a mud/paint and clog the filter weave very quickly - again there are very few ways around this beside pre-conditioning the air before it hits the filter material, such as temperature and moisture removal - not happening on a car. Maybe the strategy is to simply swap out the elements more frequently, and stay with the smaller footprint?

[mudski]

So the Patrol has been parked in the garage for the last two weeks. I go to start it yesterday and nothing, not even a light on the dash came up, like I had not connected the battery. I check that, yep its connected. I grab the DMM and test it. 1 Volt!. Feck! I chuck the Ctek MXS 10 charger and nup, she won't even fire up. Hmm, so I grab my 30 year old 8amp charger and use this until some voltage was getting in, then I quickly switch over to the Ctek before the volts drop again to low for the Ctek to work. Got it going.
The Ctek has been on recond mode since around 2'ish yesterday and I check at 6am this morning and its still charging and hasn't reached the trickle stage yet.

So before I have to go get a new battery, I need to find what is draining the battery so fast.

The starter motor was playing up for a bit there, when my daughter was driving the Patrol she got caught out a few times with the Patrol not wanting to start, even when warm, in the end the Patrol would not start at all so I tapped the solenoid with a hammer and its been good ever since.

Could a sticking solenoid drain power when switched off?

[PeeBee]

The solenoid is just a coil with a sliding spool, when you hit the solenoid with the hammer you dislodge the interface between the spool and the coil, so unless the power is left on, which means you have a 'held start function' on the ign switch I cant see it related to be honest. Significant voltage drop though, 1 V. I killed a battery crossing the Simpson with a Finch Fridge, brand new, but the Finch has no thermostat on 12V, I arrived back in melb with a new Century wet cell at 2V - battery rooted, no warranty - would not think its a catastrophic all cell failure - look at the aux items connected I reckon.

[mudnut]

If all the aux stuff is ok, then a common component failure is the alternator regulator diodes.

[mudski]

The solenoid is just a coil with a sliding spool, when you hit the solenoid with the hammer you dislodge the interface between the spool and the coil, so unless the power is left on, which means you have a 'held start function' on the ign switch I cant see it related to be honest. Significant voltage drop though, 1 V. I killed a battery crossing the Simpson with a Finch Fridge, brand new, but the Finch has no thermostat on 12V, I arrived back in melb with a new Century wet cell at 2V - battery rooted, no warranty - would not think its a catastrophic all cell failure - look at the aux items connected I reckon.

I have no Aux items to the main battery so I'm sweet there.

If all the aux stuff is ok, then a common component failure is the alternator regulator diodes.

Can I test the alternator for that? Or if I run a test, like you mentioned a few weeks ago to me, and unplug the alternator and see if anything changes?

Edit : Just googled it. Lol

Can a bad diode in an alternator drain a battery?
A bad diode in the rectifier can allow current to pass the wrong direction through the circuit, even when the engine is no longer running. It's like the tap on a water jug that has a constant trickle, eventually depleting the resource it holds inside. It's called a parasitic draw or drain.