Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

Are you still running that garrett? A lot can be said for a decent turbo and fuel pump. I honestly don't believe yours are matched well to your requirements. Any ineffective timing from the system can throw heat load into your cooling system like no tomorrow. And the only way you see it is on the water temp gauge.

You can also try an aftermarket front bash plate/deflector to generate a better differential in the engine bay.

Do you know what timing spec the pump is set at?

Never used to do this though mate. Somethings changed and I can’t put my finger on it. Not sure on the pump timing, I know it should be set at .90 though. I have the plastic deflector mounted which made zero difference, same as the Quikazz fan kit. I spoke with the pump builder and he recommends the turbo I have with his pump and injector build. So I dunno there.
Still goes good and pulls like a freight train. I’m going to take the pump out and have it looked over just for piece of mind. After that if there’s no change, I’ll just drive it.


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[mudski]

The hills mudksi is talking about though are crazy long and steep. Mine got to 110C on the same hill towing a 2T full size caravan.

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Yep. What myself and Winnie have experienced dragging our vans up will test any vehicle. All in all, I’m happy so far with what I have achieved, but I still do think there’s room for improvement. How much improvement is the question....


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[mudski]

Met up with Winnie an Co today, drove into on Bright for a few things. Noticed the oil light was on, dim but on. Check the oil, not even a lick on the dipstick. Even though the Redarc gauge says oil pressure all is good. Hmm. Put some oil in, took about a litre to get half up the stick. Oil light still on. I figure the sender unit for the factory oil light is having a hissy fit from the heat. It was 37c at 10am. Got to 40 today.
I figure I probably would use some oil dragging the Jayco over the VHC, seeing 105c water temps and constantly high revs in 2nd or 3rd just to keep a balance of momentum and coolant temps as low as possible is a hard strain and the oil will probably break down and burn. Dunno. Don’t give a rats right now. I’m on holidays.


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[MB]

Unfortunately experienced very similar excessive highway oil usage on the old GQ TD42 hauling our 2.5T mobile work accommodation out through Bourke headwind regions early 2020 Mudski Mate.
Decided to drop the 4th gear already revs lower and cruised around 80-85kmph (2,200rpm-ish) IIRC and it’s second 1,000km stint oil fill used only about 250mm versus over 1.0L the previous 1,000km.
Must be a hotter oil thing I’m assuming too ?


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[mudski]

I think I will send an oil sample off to be checked on next service. This will/ should tell me of a few things. We do this a lot for customers. I might as well do this for myself...


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[mudski]

So having a faulty oil switch creates other issues. My external fuel pump runs of this switch. Using the neg’ on the switch to activate the pump when there’s oil pressure . So since the switch is dead, the pump think the motor is not running. Plus stupid me runs a 70amp breaker for the ARB Twin compressor. Which needs 80amps. Duh! Blew the breaker and it wouldn’t reset. That will teach me for buying cheap Chinese shit. All I could get here in Bright was an 80amp breaker. But better than nothing.
New breaker and the pump still won’t run run. Hmm. I have a relay there where the earth on that is going via the oil switch. By pass the switch and still nothing. Then I find the inline fuse for the pump is cooked, tried to remove that and the hole thing Decintergrates. Nice! Bypass this and still nothing. Might just leave this until I get home.
Then this happens. Maybe on Blue Rag? Not sure.
IMG_3868.jpg
A fecking rock embedded in the KM2!


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[MB]

Bugger Mark Mate, you’re all back at camp safe & sound now hopefully?
How old are your KM2 rippers now?
About to pinch mine off the dormant shed queen GU for the GQ needs and yours look a bit worrying there. Appears to be a huge split (star picket shaped) on the next set of lugs above your unfortunate hitchhiker rock below too


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[mudski]

Bugger Mark Mate, you’re all back at camp safe & sound now hopefully?
How old are your KM2 rippers now?
About to pinch mine off the dormant shed queen GU for the GQ needs and yours look a bit worrying there. Appears to be a huge split (star picket shaped) on the next set of lugs above your unfortunate hitchhiker rock below too


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Yeah all’s good Mark mate. Went to a workshop in Mt.Beauty and borrowed their trolley jack and put the spare on just in case...
Just gotta get a new oil pressure switch and I hope the external pump comes back to life.


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[Tip12345]

man you need a holiday .. without the truck ! mine is in lots of bits ! fuel pump getting rebuilt its getting a good going over head to be crack tested and new valve seats if it passes muster .
new radiator , water pump etc etc . its becoming the money pit ! oh and pull the tanks out maybe replace all the fuel lines with some stainless steel numbers .. yeswe have some rust looking from where … trashed the fuel pump . new housing etc etc

[mudski]

The plot thickens. So my external pump runs via a relay. The earth on the relay is connected to the factory oil pressure switch so the pump will only run where the oil pressure light goes off.
The power wire from the relay to the pump has an inline fuse. Yesterday I went to see if the fuse was ok and it wasn’t. Upon removing the fuse, blade type, the fuse broke off in the holder. No biggie there’s a shop down the road I’ll go get another.
I noticed whiling driving down to the shop the oil pressure light was off. Hmm.
I replace the fuse assembly, start the car and the light is back on, but only dim as it was first doing. Remove the fuse, it’s off. So I’m not even sure now the oil switch is the culprit. Bloody confusing.

CBF’ed anyway looking at it now, the Patrol still runs, I know I have oil pressure, and oil. I’ll worry about it when I get home.


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