Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

Spent the entire day yesterday do lecky stuff. Three hours fault finding as to why my spotties would not work. Turns out the loom plug on the new Narva switch was faulty, one of the female pins in the plug wasn’t right in so not contact was made, so I got the pliers out and pushed the pin right in. Beauty. Plugged it in and nothing still. So I swapped the loom to the light bar switch which was working. Nothing on that now. Huh. I looked inside the switch where the loom plug fits and it has bent the male
Pin where the pin had not gone into the socket right. Now on both switches.
I straighten the pins out but both switches still don’t work. Fuck it! Now I have two dead new switches.
Don’t like my chance of getting warranty on both switches now. We’ll see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Finally cut the grille to fit. Looks alright I reckon.
IMG_3318.jpg
IMG_3319.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Winnie]

Very sleek mate! Looks mint.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

[Rossco]

Looks awesome Markie, pity we can't use em. . . Oh well at least they look good . .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[MudRunnerTD]

So the TD was built some 4 years ago. The engine builders put on this water rail which draws coolant from the cylinder head and back into the cooling system. This is because the TD’s have coolant flow dead spots and this jigger is supposed to help. Well. It’s been leaking since it was fitted. And it’s been back seven times and it still leaks. The water is fed into the head via a brass nut and olive setup. The coolant will only leak when the motor is cold. So my theory is when the engine gets hot, and it does, very hot sometimes, the brass fittings expand and then when it cools, the nut that holds the olive in tight loosens. Which it does, I have re tightened then on a few occasions.
Attachment 81447

So. Being fed up with this. I have hopefully found a resolve.
Using silicone coolant hose, from work of course, on barb fittings, and a special heat shrink hose clamp, compliments of work again, on the engine side of the setup. I cannot use any worm drive or other clamp as there is simply zero room once it’s all in.
I’ve only done one port so far as I want to see if it will hold up or not as the job is quite fidly trying to work around the injector spill rail and injector lines.
Attachment 81448
Attachment 81449


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking great Mark,

Can you tell me about this heat shrink mate? how did you shrink it in position? it has some kind of clamping capacity? I have never seen this.

[jay see]

Top job

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Looking great Mark,

Can you tell me about this heat shrink mate? how did you shrink it in position? it has some kind of clamping capacity? I have never seen this.

It's primarily used for the silicone hose pictured. My work is the Australian distributor of the Flexfab branded silicone hose. So its a softer hose than your standard rubber, but much stronger and resistant to heat. Not real cheap stuff too. So the shrink clamp is perfect for silicone hose, you simply run a heat gun over is like you would with electrical heat shrink tubing, and it just shrinks down onto the hose. If used on rubber it won't be able to clamp down hard enough, but on silicone rubber its great. So far, so good, I've ran the motor to temp, let it cool over night and no leaks. Fingers crossed.

[mudski]

Made up a bracket for the solenoid. Nice spot for it.
IMG_3314.jpg
IMG_3316.jpg
IMG_3315.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Got new switches today to replace the two dead ones. They work as they should. Now to get the dash back together...

Think I might order a new chrome grille too. The one I have is broken in so many places its nearly falling apart, and now I have cut sections out of it, its quite flimsy.

How this.
The conduit in the pic I put there and it runs down into the fire wall through a 1 inch hole so I could add more wires through. The last two spare wires I had in there were the yellow and green wires. Turns out when I was making the dash loom up for the winch in/ out switch I used yellow and green as my power out wires, totally forgetting about the two spare wires I had there. Nice!!!
IMG_3317.jpg

[Hodge]

Looking great Mark.
So much going on, I gotta catch up on all...

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk