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Thread: Mudski GU Build Thread

  1. #401
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    I did Darren but the site I was using to upload the pics shut down, or something happened, can't remember to be honest, and all the pics wouldn't work. I got the shits with it so I just left it. If you can rename it, Mudski's GU Build thread, or something or something like that, and move it that would be great! Thanks Darren.
    Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.
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    mudski (3rd July 2020), PeeBee (3rd July 2020), Rossco (3rd July 2020)

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  4. #402
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.
    Bloody legend! Cheers mate.


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  5. #403
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    Mudski GU Build Thread

    So the TD was built some 4 years ago. The engine builders put on this water rail which draws coolant from the cylinder head and back into the cooling system. This is because the TD’s have coolant flow dead spots and this jigger is supposed to help. Well. It’s been leaking since it was fitted. And it’s been back seven times and it still leaks. The water is fed into the head via a brass nut and olive setup. The coolant will only leak when the motor is cold. So my theory is when the engine gets hot, and it does, very hot sometimes, the brass fittings expand and then when it cools, the nut that holds the olive in tight loosens. Which it does, I have re tightened then on a few occasions.
    IMG_3172.jpg

    So. Being fed up with this. I have hopefully found a resolve.
    Using silicone coolant hose, from work of course, on barb fittings, and a special heat shrink hose clamp, compliments of work again, on the engine side of the setup. I cannot use any worm drive or other clamp as there is simply zero room once it’s all in.
    I’ve only done one port so far as I want to see if it will hold up or not as the job is quite fidly trying to work around the injector spill rail and injector lines.
    IMG_3196.jpg
    IMG_3195.jpg


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    Last edited by mudski; 11th July 2020 at 10:22 PM.

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  7. #404
    The master farter
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    Mudski GU Build Thread

    Also tested out my wiring for the winch switches. Works as i wanted. Push the winch in button and the light for that goes on and there is power out, push the button out and the light goes one and power out. Yay!
    IMG_3070.jpg

    Adjustments.jpg

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    Last edited by mudski; 11th July 2020 at 11:04 PM.

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  9. #405
    Patrol Guru Sprock's Avatar
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    Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works 👍🏻

  10. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprock View Post
    Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works
    So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.


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  11. #407
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    Just about ready to mount the winch and get the bar back on.
    IMG_3208.jpg


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  13. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.


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    Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.

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  15. #409
    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.
    That pretty much what I need. There is zero room for a hose clamp to go around a barb fitting. I'll speak with Enzed today about them.

  16. #410
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    Mudski GU Build Thread

    Not getting much done but...
    Got the winch in the bar.
    IMG_3216.jpg
    My concern is the winch will hit the power steering cooler, even though I’ve moved it back as far as I can.
    IMG_3217.jpg
    IMG_3218.jpg



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