Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

I did think it’s time to upgrade to a lithium battery, but then realising I also need to upgrade my Ctek 250 dc-dc charger as well quickly put a stop to that thought.


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[jay see]

I did think it’s time to upgrade to a lithium battery, but then realising I also need to upgrade my Ctek 250 dc-dc charger as well quickly put a stop to that thought.


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I thought the same and also came up with the same result..

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[mudski]

Gave the old GUrl a quick scrub before getting her dirty over a 4 day Fecking weekend starting this Friday at Enoch’s point on the Big River. Cannot fecking wait!


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[BrazilianY60]

Looking mint!

[mudski]

Looking mint!

Thanks. Still not a bad duco after 22 years. I have found a little spot of rust, quite bad but small, hiding behind the snorkel, which would be snorkel and windscreen out job. Not really wanting to do that though.

[mudski]

So after piss farting around using and putting up with the shitty rose joints on the extended sway bar links, that wear out almost instantly and require to be greased every time you hit the dirt, plus the grey area over their legality, I am making my own. Lol
Got some heavy steel tubing, cut to the length I need, drilled and tapped one end to M10x1.25 to hold onto a mini tie rod.
I just need to figure out whether to use 8.8 grade threaded rod for the top end or go the next tensile strength up. 10.2 I think it is.
10.2 is obviously stronger but has less give than 8.8, so it could potentially snap if flexed too much, but that’s what the mounting rubbers are for, to allow the rod to pivot in the mounting hole.
I’ll do a test run on the fronts. Then do the rears next if these work out.




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[mudski]

Finally got around to finishing one link. I used 10.9 m10x1.5 all thread in the top.




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[mudski]

So I have a weeks grace from hell, AKA work, I’m not going anywhere so I thought I’d pull the Patrol in the garage and do some maintenance and some preventative maintenance. A can of worms I have opened….
There more on this list also.



I removed the rear tail shaft as the yoke on the gearbox is worn out.
The cup on the uni can be inserted by hand, no force needed at all. Not good.

Problem here. Nissan don’t sell this part, nor does Hardy Spicer and Drivetech, and I’m not keen on forking out a small fortune for a complete second half tail shaft.
So not sure what to do here. I’ll wait until I’m back at work and send the old one off to Hardy Spicer to see if they can match it up.



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[mudski]

Tie rod and drag link end boots need to be replaced.



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[mudski]

And I’ve had a small issue for a while where I couldn’t pump up the tyres. For some reason any air chuck I used would not pump air into them.
Long story short Darren last year suggested maybe wind out the valves a little. This worked. So every time I had to put air in the tyres I had to loosen the inserts a little.
So I was guessing the seal on the valve insert was worn out from using a tyre deflator many times over.
So I finally changed them out. One insert was actually broken.


So we’ll see if new inserts help.


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