The safest cleaning solvent for alternator interior?

[dom14]

It's a great mod. Don't forget to upgrade/add a bigger wire from the alternator to the battery.

Also if yours was like mine, remember where the smaller wires go. One of them goes to ground - I forgot this and connected it to positive.. Bit of smoke as it was an earth wire that wasn't fused..
Thankfully only had to cut a bit of cable, the rest seemed unaffected.

Also, you may need to slightly machine the spacer that sits behind the pulley. I wasn't happy with how the nut sat (not enough purchase) so a friend fabbed up a new spacer.
Everything still lined up ok with the different spacer, bought a couple of spare belts in case I had any issues, but it's probably done around 3000km's since I've fitted it still on the original belt.
I figure if it didn't line up correctly, it'd squeal, and I doubt the belt would last this long.

Plus, this means you just need another pulley for your original alternator and you have a working spare (or take it as is if you take what you need to swap pulleys on the tracks).

Hi Chris,
I was onto getting another pulley, then realized removing the pulley isn't that hard with the right tool, but I reckon it's better to have another pulley so I can swap the alternator without having to stuff around too much.
I fabricated the spacers for the pulley & the alternator mounting bolt, both by myself. It wasn't that hard, and wasn't that much of "fabrication" either.(I like the word, )
Yeah, it all lined up pretty well, only thing is that the alternator is a bit of PITA, 'cos I managed to get a one covered with transmission oil damage. It's working fine, just bit too much crap inside.
From what I see, I can't get the wires wrong, 'cos it's exactly like the original one. The socket is the same for the trigger wire and the sense wire(do tell me if that's not the case). Then Battery wire is the same way,except I need a bigger lug to fit the wire(I have to do all new 100A battery wire+fuse anyway).
Earth wire is the same as well. So, I'm not sure how you got it mixed up. Probably the one you got hold of is bit different on rear connections?
I'm pretty sure you're lucky to not to cook anything inside the alternator when you connected the earth wire to the B+. I guess since the short circuit happens before the alternator internal parts, you would've had just enough time to disconnect it before any damage.

I got all the pictures and details of the little project. I'll post it as a thread soon.

Cheers

[dom14]

Wouldn't ya simply use electronics cleaner.
available from Jaycar.

Hi Robo,
Yes, that's the one that's been recommended. It's a $25 small can, and I'm not too sure that's enough for the amount of grime inside it. So, I reckon it's not cost effective to go down that path.
By the looks of it, it needs a bath of the cleaning chemical. Basically, a fair bit of transmission oil had been pouring into the alternator.
Combine that with with dust getting into it over the years, you can imagine the amount of crud build up.

[Throbbinhood]

Hi Chris,
I was onto getting another pulley, then realized removing the pulley isn't that hard with the right tool, but I reckon it's better to have another pulley so I can swap the alternator without having to stuff around too much.
I fabricated the spacers for the pulley & the alternator mounting bolt, both by myself. It wasn't that hard, and wasn't that much of "fabrication" either.(I like the word, )
Yeah, it all lined up pretty well, only thing is that the alternator is a bit of PITA, 'cos I managed to get a one covered with transmission oil damage. It's working fine, just bit too much crap inside.
From what I see, I can't get the wires wrong, 'cos it's exactly like the original one. The socket is the same for the trigger wire and the sense wire(do tell me if that's not the case). Then Battery wire is the same way,except I need a bigger lug to fit the wire(I have to do all new 100A battery wire+fuse anyway).
Earth wire is the same as well. So, I'm not sure how you got it mixed up. Probably the one you got hold of is bit different on rear connections?
I'm pretty sure you're lucky to not to cook anything inside the alternator when you connected the earth wire to the B+. I guess since the short circuit happens before the alternator internal parts, you would've had just enough time to disconnect it before any damage.

I got all the pictures and details of the little project. I'll post it as a thread soon.

Cheers

Well, I ended up earthing that wire to the chassis. The plug itself is the same, as is the main charge wire. The alt I got only had the plug, main stud (charge cable to batt), and one other stud that was also positive - it didn't have an earth stud from memory.

Also, the Ford alternators came in a few different ones (100A, 110A, 120A if memory serves correct). When I did the wiring I think I put 120a or 150a to be on the safe side. I also left the original charge cable in place.

[dom14]

Well, I ended up earthing that wire to the chassis. The plug itself is the same, as is the main charge wire. The alt I got only had the plug, main stud (charge cable to batt), and one other stud that was also positive - it didn't have an earth stud from memory.

Also, the Ford alternators came in a few different ones (100A, 110A, 120A if memory serves correct). When I did the wiring I think I put 120a or 150a to be on the safe side. I also left the original charge cable in place.

You left the original charge cable as it was, but not connected to the battery or the alternator, right?

There's no stud for the Earth wire, you just need to use a small bolt(as in the stock one) to attach the earth wire to the alternator body. There're few holes at the back of the alternator to facilitate the earth wire. I'm using the original earth wire with the original lug & the bolt to attach it to the back of the alternator. As far as I can see, electrically it's not too much fiddling other than the new battery cable & the fuse.(Most of the fiddling was mechanical) Mine is a 110A one according to the label. I'm using 100A wire+fuse. I thought that's enough, 'cos it will charge only one battery at a time.

You said there'another stud that was also positive! What could that be? Mine only has one stud(B+ battery terminal), just like the stock alternator. It's obvious now the reason you got confused. Yours is slightly different. Mine is exactly the same as the stock one. I'm presuming the two wires goes to the plug(trigger and sense wires) are of the same orientation as in the stock alternator plug. If not, I would have to swap it over, but it won't cause any damage, as they are both positive wires. I'll find it when I wire it all up and run the engine. But, I reckon it's the same.

I think the extra positive stud at the back of your alternator is probably the "F" terminal, which is the regulator full field bypass, which is not required for Patrol alternator setup.
You mistook that for the earth wire. Fair enough.

[threedogs]

Do you know anyone with a proper parts washer ??
Maybe a 4x4 shop will let you use theirs
I fitted a ford bosch alternator to my other 4x4
sick of paying $100 for recifiers, plus the bosch was an enclosed style.
Not a squirrel cage style like modern ones [open]

[Cuppa]

Check your yellow pages & phone the local motor re-winders. They’d have to be dealing with grimy coils daily so I’m sure could advise.

[dom14]

Check your yellow pages & phone the local motor re-winders. They’d have to be dealing with grimy coils daily so I’m sure could advise.

Yeah, quite a few auto sparkys around here. I don't think they would mind giving away a tip or two.

[dom14]

Do you know anyone with a proper parts washer ??
Maybe a 4x4 shop will let you use theirs
I fitted a ford bosch alternator to my other 4x4
sick of paying $100 for recifiers, plus the bosch was an enclosed style.
Not a squirrel cage style like modern ones [open]

Yeah, all the modern bosch ones are usually enclosed(I mean internal regulator) ones. Funnily enough, I still prefer external regulator setup even though they are not around anymore.
They go forever,without having to replace them every few years. I think they switched to the internal ones knowing it will shorten the lifespan of the internal
electronics, probably for the safety. Alternators can put out a fair bit AC voltage out from what I hear.
Modern alternators are good when the internal cooling fans are able to cool the internals.
When the grime build up over time, it doesn't help, as in my case.

I think I go with hot detergent water bath. Safest and the cheapest method by the looks of it, but obviously not the quickest, which is no problem for me, 'cos I'm planning to live forever.

[Throbbinhood]

You left the original charge cable as it was, but not connected to the battery or the alternator, right?

There's no stud for the Earth wire, you just need to use a small bolt(as in the stock one) to attach the earth wire to the alternator body. There're few holes at the back of the alternator to facilitate the earth wire. I'm using the original earth wire with the original lug & the bolt to attach it to the back of the alternator. As far as I can see, electrically it's not too much fiddling other than the new battery cable & the fuse.(Most of the fiddling was mechanical) Mine is a 110A one according to the label. I'm using 100A wire+fuse. I thought that's enough, 'cos it will charge only one battery at a time.

You said there'another stud that was also positive! What could that be? Mine only has one stud(B+ battery terminal), just like the stock alternator. It's obvious now the reason you got confused. Yours is slightly different. Mine is exactly the same as the stock one. I'm presuming the two wires goes to the plug(trigger and sense wires) are of the same orientation as in the stock alternator plug. If not, I would have to swap it over, but it won't cause any damage, as they are both positive wires. I'll find it when I wire it all up and run the engine. But, I reckon it's the same.

I think the extra positive stud at the back of your alternator is probably the "F" terminal, which is the regulator full field bypass, which is not required for Patrol alternator setup.
You mistook that for the earth wire. Fair enough.

The original cable is connected to both the alternator and the battery. I also have the 'heavier' cable also connected between the two.

Sounds like my alt is a little different to yours. Was all good in the end, nothing that couldn't be fixed.

The plugs just plug straight in - on mine anyway.

[dom14]

The original cable is connected to both the alternator and the battery. I also have the 'heavier' cable also connected between the two.

Sounds like my alt is a little different to yours. Was all good in the end, nothing that couldn't be fixed.

The plugs just plug straight in - on mine anyway.

Yeah, it appears it is. Electrically, mine is a straight swap. Mechanically, it was a bit of PITA, but was good experience for metal works.

If you original battery cable is still connected to the alternator, then your 100+ amp fuse doesn't serve the desired purpose for that amp range.

BTW, I've been trying to get hold of 100amp fuse with a holder, and apparently they don't exist. Jaycar, Autobarn, etc don't have it.
60 amp is as high as they go, and that's for audio applications, which is also good for anything else.

Where did you buy that fuse & holder?!

I'm beginning to think it may be an overkill after all, 'cos battery won't draw that many amps even in boost stage, and
we won't be charging two batteries simultaneously via the alternator. I can most certainly use two 60 amp fuses in parallel, but now I'm not
sure whether that's necessary at all. I reckon 60 amp is more than enough.