New winch.

[outback]

ROFLMAO... that is why God invented shovels before he invented Dyneema

True GOD did tell man to make a shovel so he could dig himself out of the sh!t he got into when not doing what his wife told him to do because SHE knows all

[the evil twin]

Simplest way?
Connect your winch to the Cranker
That way the Aux is only going to see about 1/3rd of the load if you even need it.
An SBI12 Redarc will do to parallel the batteries
Some of the other VSR's are rated at 140 to 150 amps
The heavy duty SBI12 from Redarc is rated at 200 amps as are a few others but they are quite expensive

[outback]

The 9500 was according to specs rated at 410 amps max load , (9500b)
the 12000 is rated according to specs at 430 amps max load, (12000b).

I have been running the winch of the aux battery but will change this.

I think it may also be smart to have both batteries as cranking batteries as well.

[outback]

I am getting a GVM upgrade so will look at doing the electrical upgrade at the same time.

Though not too happy re GVM upgrade as it means a 2" lift. I spend a lot of time on the highways and a lift sometime attracts the wrong "bluieish" attention .

[the evil twin]

The 9500 was according to specs rated at 410 amps max load , (9500b)
the 12000 is rated according to specs at 430 amps max load, (12000b).

I have been running the winch of the aux battery but will change this.

I think it may also be smart to have both batteries as cranking batteries as well.

Crankers or All rounders if you do a lot of winching

I don't run my winch (1200) or any winch at max load continuous.
If the winch bogs down I stop and either do some more digging or rig the pull to advantage.

Soo that means if you have a say 300 amp continuous load the Alternator will handle (roughly amongst friends) 1/3rd, the Cranker 1/3rd and the Aux 1/3rd
Those figures can vary wildly depending on state of charge, condition etc.

If you want the "sky is the limit" cheap and dirty option for current from the Aux put a start solenoid across the VSR and energise it for winching or starting.
If you want the neatest then buy a Redarc SBI212 or equivalent

[outback]

I have a nasty attraction to the policy of dig, i.e. shovel work, before doing any recovery.
I also dislike single line pulls and tend toward MA systems even if they are slower. Though to be honest never seen the benefit of a 3:1 vs a 2:1 + 2:1 = 4:1 system.

As far as battery is concerned I would like to sort that out as i run too much off the AUX and need to balance out the load a bit more but save the cranker for winching and assist via the aux.

[the evil twin]

Agree...

If a 2:1 is getting loaded up then 3:1 simple rig is a bit pointless when you can go 4:1 compound rig with similar gear
Mind you I haven't used a 4:1 in anger only in training as a demo for the students.
A shovel, driving assistance and 2:1 usually beats any bog

[outback]

Agree...

If a 2:1 is getting loaded up then 3:1 simple rig is a bit pointless when you can go 4:1 compound rig with similar gear
Mind you I haven't used a 4:1 in anger only in training as a demo for the students.
A shovel, driving assistance and 2:1 usually beats any bog

True ET but few don't even know how to do a 4:1 compound system. Many even don't carry enough gear to do a 3:1 pull.

[outback]

Well the 12000lb winch has gone back to Supercheap Auto.

Why? All simple it would not free spool easily. To get the rope off the drum under free spool it was a huge pull and very slow. Even with no rope on the drum it was almost impossible to turn the drum under free spool.

I put this down to the fact the winch has not been run at all.
Anyway repacked the gearbox, put in a new gearbox washers and rotated the gearbox to what I needed for the install.

During all this I noticed the gears worked well turned and had no restriction in movement.
I did note that the motor was stiff, very hard to turn. By twisting the shaft the motor shaft at the motor housing.

I then in a bit of web looking at a few forums discussing winches, I, found this YouTube vid.

tigerz11 winch problems
https://youtu.be/2gUCnIaFwFY

Seems the guy was having the same issue with his winch that is hard to pull the cable in free spool.
Made me think possibly something was wrong with my winch.

Anyway I had a chat with the local Suercheap Auto store and they said no it should free spool easily., so bring it in and we will look at it..
Went home pick it up, took it in. Since I am one of those people who accidently joined thei club, there was a record of my purchase on their system, less than 6 months old.
Response, winch stuffed how about a replacement?
Fine.
Checked replacement and it free spooled as expected.

Now new winch.

One issue, the new control box is different to the old ones. So now for a bit more rewiring and fitting of new control box. I might be able to keep some of the old wiring but it looks like a bit extra will have to be done.

All I can say is that the service from from the manager Rick at the local Supercheap Auto shop was great.

Also glad now I did join their club thing as I have no idea where the receipt for the winch is., the computer record at least proved I had purchased the winch.

[Lights]

Give Whittam Ropes in Melbourne a call. They have an Australia made rope at very competitive prices. Get yourself some 10mm. Assuming your low mount has a brake inside the drum, the only time it will really see any heat is if you are winching out so just make sure you use the free spool.