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26th October 2015, 10:24 AM
#1
Advanced
Broke my difflock...
Away for a trip next weekend so was checking bits and pieces this weekend. Changed rear diff oil which was looking a bit cloudy and there was a wee piece of metal on the drain plug. Checked 4wd (on gravel), working. Stuck difflock on, light goes straight on (didn't even flash which made me suspicious) but didn't sound like it was working...
Disengaged hubs and switched difflock back on then jacked up one rear wheel to see if she would pull herself off the jack. Wheel in the air turned but that was it. Jumped out to have a listen and all I could hear was a small clicking sound which stopped as soon as I switched off the difflock.
So difflocks knackered. Guessing either selector fork or one of the gears? Made enquiries with a breakers to get a whole diff with difflock. Is there anything in particular to watch out for when I eventually come to fit the new bits?
In the meantime I'm guessing I'm okay still using her? (There's no noises from the axle) I'll just have to take a tip out of the Landrover boy's books and use plenty of momentum until the difflock is fixed!
1990 4.2 Diesel SWB Safari MT - 2" lift + long travel shocks, 33" MTs, -35 Steelies, 17000lb winch, Steel bumpers, Rock sliders, Snorkel, CB, Manual hubs, LED lightbar, Rear secure drawer, Rear drop down table, Manual gearbox conversion.
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26th October 2015 10:24 AM
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26th October 2015, 03:19 PM
#2
Patrol God
Translate Breakers to wreckers for us Aussies.
what style locker is it ???
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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26th October 2015, 04:28 PM
#3
Advanced
It's the original Nissan one (should've said)
1990 4.2 Diesel SWB Safari MT - 2" lift + long travel shocks, 33" MTs, -35 Steelies, 17000lb winch, Steel bumpers, Rock sliders, Snorkel, CB, Manual hubs, LED lightbar, Rear secure drawer, Rear drop down table, Manual gearbox conversion.
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26th October 2015, 06:58 PM
#4
Patrol Guru
Maybe its repairable? If only a small part of it has gone maybe that's the best option. Is it more pricey to put an after market diff lock in. Might be stronger as well.
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
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BigRAWesty (26th October 2015)
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27th October 2015, 10:24 AM
#5
Advanced
Got to take the whole diff out just to fault find and could be around as much to buy a new part as I would to pick up a whole used diff to just slot straight in.
Aftermarket choice is limited for UK Trols and expensive!
Got a Lokka coming for the front axle anyway so won't really be in a rush to fix the difflock.
1990 4.2 Diesel SWB Safari MT - 2" lift + long travel shocks, 33" MTs, -35 Steelies, 17000lb winch, Steel bumpers, Rock sliders, Snorkel, CB, Manual hubs, LED lightbar, Rear secure drawer, Rear drop down table, Manual gearbox conversion.
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