OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Help with getting the TD42 inlet manifold off

  1. #1
    Beginner Joshyy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Post Help with getting the TD42 inlet manifold off

    Hi Guys,

    Soo I snapped one of the studs for my inlet manifold
    Which has given me the perfect opportunity to pull off the whole thing, clean it out, and replace the gasket.

    Any tips or pointers?

    Can you get the manifold off without draining the coolant?
    Any useful tools?
    How long do you think it would take?
    Yes I have read the manual, and its not very detailed.... Hopefully someone here can help me out!

    Its a 2006 4.2 GU DX, I have removed almost all of the EGR, so I have a little more room around it, but it looks like the rear studs might be a bit of a challenge.

    Cheers,
    -Josh.

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #2
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    North brissy
    Posts
    8,200
    Thanks
    1,513
    Thanked 5,663 Times in 3,158 Posts
    Mentioned
    110 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    There is only 3 studs the rest are bolts. A 3/8 drive ratchet with an extension will access the bolts. No need to drain coolant or anything. Remove intercooler and piping and remove manifold.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to nissannewby For This Useful Post:

    Joshyy (26th October 2015)

  5. #3
    Beginner Joshyy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for that mate,

    I'm pulling it off tomorrow morning, hopefully it all goes well!!

  6. #4
    Hardcore
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    central coast nsw
    Posts
    2,011
    Thanks
    625
    Thanked 513 Times in 388 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So how did ya go with it??
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Robo For This Useful Post:

    Joshyy (4th December 2015)

  8. #5
    Beginner Joshyy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I got lucky!!

    The inlet manifold was easy, had it off within half an hour, Didn't have drain any coolant or anything!
    just had to loosen some of the fuel line bracket thingos, so quick and easy.
    I used the time to remove the rest of the egr pipes as well.

    The snapped bolt came right out, just undid it with my fingers! so I'm lucky! haha

    new gasket and new bolts, All good! took a little longer to but it back together, but its all good now, Alot easier than I thought.

    Cheers for asking man, and sorry it took me so long to reply!

  9. #6
    Advanced
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Swan Valley
    Posts
    96
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 68 Times in 29 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Why would u have to drain coolant? A good rule of mechanics is to be observant. You must at least know that coolant flows to & from the radiator? Do you see any hoses from anywhere going to the manifold? No, so why would you need to drain the coolant?

    The only reason I'm saying anything is that if you have such a limited knowledge then you prob dont understand how tight those studs need to be in the head. If you don't fit them correctly they'll work loose no matter how tight you do the nut up. What gasket did you use? Some gaskets require glue & others don't. This varies between gasket types, not vehicle make as most seem to think.

    Mechanics is a 4 yr apprenticeship for a very good reason. Sorry to sound sinical but as an ex mechanic I see this crap ALL the time. It always seems so easy.

  10. #7
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    North brissy
    Posts
    8,200
    Thanks
    1,513
    Thanked 5,663 Times in 3,158 Posts
    Mentioned
    110 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I think a mechanics apprenticeship should be a lot longer with all the "competent" ones around who have done their 4 year apprenticeship.

  11. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to nissannewby For This Useful Post:

    firm351 (4th December 2015), Hodge (4th December 2015), jff45 (4th December 2015), Nightjar (4th December 2015)

  12. #8
    Advanced
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Waikiki, WA
    Posts
    84
    Thanks
    11
    Thanked 31 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Josh,
    While you are at it, remove and refit all your exhaust bolts with a coating of anti seize. Save you a lot of hassle down the track. Nothing like "hands on" experience to get to know your vehicle and not forgetting what you have done here, ask questions if you are unsure. No matter how experienced we think we are you can guarantee we can learn something new.
    2002 ST Coilcab, Chevy 6.5 V8 Garrett turbo, intercooled. 3.9 diffs, Cooper AT3 265/75/16.
    Trailstar Aquila 5.4
    http://s4.zetaboards.com/Gold_Detecting/index/
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7GCkFcHsh0

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Nightjar For This Useful Post:

    Joshyy (4th December 2015)

  14. #9
    Advanced
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Swan Valley
    Posts
    96
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 68 Times in 29 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    I think a mechanics apprenticeship should be a lot longer with all the "competent" ones around who have done their 4 year apprenticeship.
    Yep. Even after 4yrs it takes many yrs of experience to become an expert in the field. You just can't learn it all & gain the necessary experience in a short time. And so much changes over time too. It's been 15yrs since I did it for a living & back then we only had OBD1 readers & Gas analyzers. The VT commie & AU falcon were the current models. The GU series one was also new. So much has changed & yet a lot will always remain the same. Its the principals that are most important because you can apply them to any vehicle.

    Sorry if I sounded negative Josh. Good on you for having a crack at it. You have to start somewhere I guess. You did the right thing by coming here & asking questions.

    What Nightjar said is good advice. It's worth the effort to refit them. Heat caused by exhaust often virtually welds components together so anti seize will make future work less of s nightmare
    Last edited by Sharky1; 4th December 2015 at 11:30 AM.

  15. The Following User Says Thank You to Sharky1 For This Useful Post:

    Joshyy (4th December 2015)

  16. #10
    Beginner Joshyy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Sharky1 View Post
    Why would u have to drain coolant? A good rule of mechanics is to be observant. You must at least know that coolant flows to & from the radiator? Do you see any hoses from anywhere going to the manifold? No, so why would you need to drain the coolant?

    The only reason I'm saying anything is that if you have such a limited knowledge then you prob dont understand how tight those studs need to be in the head. If you don't fit them correctly they'll work loose no matter how tight you do the nut up. What gasket did you use? Some gaskets require glue & others don't. This varies between gasket types, not vehicle make as most seem to think.

    Mechanics is a 4 yr apprenticeship for a very good reason. Sorry to sound sinical but as an ex mechanic I see this crap ALL the time. It always seems so easy.
    ...Well I asked because on another forum a guy said that he had to drain the coolant, and in the Haynes manual, it has "Refill the radiator" as step 5 when re assembling, I asked the question because looking at it the coolant hoses did not run in to the manifold anywhere, the closest it got was the EGR just before it was plumbed back in to the intake, which I had already removed. Sorry for sounding like a derp haha

    And yeah I actually do know exactly how tight the studs go. I did allot of research before attempting it, and I knew all the torque settings and I used all the correct tools.

    Used a genuine Nissan gasket, and some gasket sealant/glue as advised by multiple mechanics, No problems so far its been on a few weeks.
    Not a complete spud, but I do understand where you are coming from, some people should not work on cars but I think I've got the basics down and I'm willing to give what I think I'm capable of a go AFTER alot of research and some advise from others. More challenging things I leave to the professionals.

    And yeah.. I work in an office, No Hate! haha

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •