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Thread: Dometic rm2553 not running on AC

  1. #1
    SUCH IS LIFE Maxhead's Avatar
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    Dometic rm2553 not running on AC

    Guys, I'm having an issue with my fridge on the caravan not running on AC.

    DC and Gas no problems.

    Has anyone got any knowledge on these fridges??
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    Dribble Master Clunk's Avatar
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    240V heating element is stuffed


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    Maxhead (14th October 2015)

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Does it have a protective fuse or circuit breaker on it
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Dribble Master Clunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    Does it have a protective fuse or circuit breaker on it
    They don't have internal fuses for either 12V or 240V

    It'll be either the power selector switch or the 240V heater element............. but more than likely the element needs replacing, around a $100 from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_f...ement&_sacat=0


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    SUCH IS LIFE Maxhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    They don't have internal fuses for either 12V or 240V

    It'll be either the power selector switch or the 240V heater element............. but more than likely the element needs replacing, around a $100 from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.T RC0.H0.Xdometic+rm2553+240V+heater+element.TRS0&_n kw=dometic+rm2553+240V+heater+element&_sacat=0
    Yeah, on ya Clunkosorous. It looks like it's the element.
    Haven't pulled the fridge out yet but all points to the element. Tested the switch and all good
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    Beginner Old.Tony's Avatar
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    Simple test (Fluke meter required). Plug a 400W+ inverter into a battery and turn it on. Place the Fluke meter on the positive lead coming off the battery and switch the meter to read amps. Plug the fridge into the inverter and switch the fridge on. If the amps rise, the fridge is drawing power, perhaps the heating element has shifted? That would be something to pay immediate attention to. 240V element is separate to 12V and of course is separate to the burner nozzle.

    Personally don't run mine on 12V, because 12V doesn't use thermostat - it draws constantly and cools at a "maintenance" level. Both 240V and gas use thermostat and will switch on and off as needed. When driving, I invert the incoming 12V and have the fridge plugged into the inverter.
    When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

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    Advanced AGman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old.Tony View Post
    Simple test (Fluke meter required). Plug a 400W+ inverter into a battery and turn it on. Place the Fluke meter on the positive lead coming off the battery and switch the meter to read amps. Plug the fridge into the inverter and switch the fridge on. If the amps rise, the fridge is drawing power, perhaps the heating element has shifted? That would be something to pay immediate attention to. 240V element is separate to 12V and of course is separate to the burner nozzle.
    What sort of current are we talking here? Any DC from an inverter would have to be fairly high...higher than the 10Amp range on most Flukes? Id be vary wary of putting a meter in series with a battery and an inverter. Especially testing something dubious.

    A Fluke clamp meter would be OK...

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    Beginner Old.Tony's Avatar
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    Yeah that's what I meant, something like this from Jaycar.
    When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

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    Bumped as Old.Tony's post went into moderation
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