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12th October 2015, 06:32 PM
#1
SUCH IS LIFE
Dometic rm2553 not running on AC
Guys, I'm having an issue with my fridge on the caravan not running on AC.
DC and Gas no problems.
Has anyone got any knowledge on these fridges??
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______ 2017 D-Max _______
I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit
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12th October 2015 06:32 PM
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Circuit advertisement
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14th October 2015, 02:12 AM
#2
Dribble Master
240V heating element is stuffed
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The Following User Says Thank You to Clunk For This Useful Post:
Maxhead (14th October 2015)
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14th October 2015, 04:05 PM
#3
Patrol God
Does it have a protective fuse or circuit breaker on it
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
Maxhead (14th October 2015)
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14th October 2015, 06:24 PM
#4
Dribble Master
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Does it have a protective fuse or circuit breaker on it
They don't have internal fuses for either 12V or 240V
It'll be either the power selector switch or the 240V heater element............. but more than likely the element needs replacing, around a $100 from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_f...ement&_sacat=0
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14th October 2015, 07:14 PM
#5
SUCH IS LIFE
Originally Posted by
Clunk
Yeah, on ya Clunkosorous. It looks like it's the element.
Haven't pulled the fridge out yet but all points to the element. Tested the switch and all good
________________________
______ 2017 D-Max _______
I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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7th May 2016, 07:38 AM
#6
Beginner
Simple test (Fluke meter required). Plug a 400W+ inverter into a battery and turn it on. Place the Fluke meter on the positive lead coming off the battery and switch the meter to read amps. Plug the fridge into the inverter and switch the fridge on. If the amps rise, the fridge is drawing power, perhaps the heating element has shifted? That would be something to pay immediate attention to. 240V element is separate to 12V and of course is separate to the burner nozzle.
Personally don't run mine on 12V, because 12V doesn't use thermostat - it draws constantly and cools at a "maintenance" level. Both 240V and gas use thermostat and will switch on and off as needed. When driving, I invert the incoming 12V and have the fridge plugged into the inverter.
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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7th May 2016, 08:16 AM
#7
Advanced
Originally Posted by
Old.Tony
Simple test (Fluke meter required). Plug a 400W+ inverter into a battery and turn it on. Place the Fluke meter on the positive lead coming off the battery and switch the meter to read amps. Plug the fridge into the inverter and switch the fridge on. If the amps rise, the fridge is drawing power, perhaps the heating element has shifted? That would be something to pay immediate attention to. 240V element is separate to 12V and of course is separate to the burner nozzle.
What sort of current are we talking here? Any DC from an inverter would have to be fairly high...higher than the 10Amp range on most Flukes? Id be vary wary of putting a meter in series with a battery and an inverter. Especially testing something dubious.
A Fluke clamp meter would be OK...
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7th May 2016, 03:02 PM
#8
Beginner
Yeah that's what I meant, something like this from Jaycar.
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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10th May 2016, 05:12 PM
#9
Rotaredom
Bumped as Old.Tony's post went into moderation
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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