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Thread: Dual Battery System Wiring

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    Expert Dman2603's Avatar
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    Dual Battery System Wiring

    Ok so I know there are many ways to do this! I have spoken to 3 ppl & already got 3 different answers!
    At the moment I have a CFX40 fridge & that is it for output, I also have 180w solar panels for charging.
    My thought was run 135Amp 6 b&s from battery down to rear of car & connect to Anderson plug for fridge.
    Run another 6 B&s cable down to rear of car by tow hitch receiver for solar charging Anderson plug.

    My thoughts on this are as I add stuff to the system I can add a block to the internal cable & run everything I need to whilst keeping the charging side of things separate!

    I have a supercharge all rounder battery & have also been told to run the outputs from the threaded terminals & charge through the other terminals! (this was by the guy in the shop who I suspect was just selling me shit I don't need)!

    What do people think? Overkill?

    I have the ABR Sidewinder isolator.

    Cheers for any help guys!
    2006 GU IV ST MAN 3.0TD - UHF, Boost & EGT Gauges, NADS, Pro Vent 200, Snorkel, Tigged IC, 2" Lift, Dual Battery System & Still lots to come!
    Got a Patrol in WA CLICK HERE - Just Go There!

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    Stevelb21 (27th September 2015)

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    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    Overkill would be an understatement for a 40 litre fridge.

    You'll get different answers because there are different 'ideal' scenarios.

    If you want a power source at the Hitch for Trailers, Vans, Camping then I would...
    Run one 8 B&S pair (use 6 if you want but 8 or 10 is oodles with approp C/B amperage) from your Aux battery to an Anderson plug on the Tow Hitch.
    Put a 80 amp C/B or maxi fuse or whatever as close to the battery positive terminal as is practical
    Run a feed from the back of the Tow Hitch plug up to a distributor point in the back of the vehicle
    Don't cut and splice the main run from the battery C/B to the Anderson

    If you don't want a 50 amp or higher power source at the Hitch...
    Run a 10 B&S feed from the Battery (fused as appropriate to size) to the rear cabin distribution point
    Run a "short as practical" pair of solar or 14/16 B&S wire from the Battery to wherever you are connecting the Solar at the front of the vehicle
    Use a 50 amp Anderson if you wish or I prefer Anderson Power Pole or similar connector
    Keep your Solar run as short as practical and have your Solar Controller as close to the battery as is practical

    Just my opinion as lecktric things hate long cable runs and joins but gremlins love them

    P.S. run the cables from/to whatever terminals you want. I use only one or the other simply so it is easier to connect/disconnect the battery. Only time I would consider using the standard terminals is for very high current IE Winch or Starter
    Last edited by the evil twin; 24th September 2015 at 12:51 PM.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Dman2603 (24th September 2015)

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    Expert Dman2603's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    Overkill would be an understatement for a 40 litre fridge.
    Lol Cheers ET! Yeah I know it is overkill at the moment!! But its mainly to accommodate for everything else that may or may not end up needing power!
    2006 GU IV ST MAN 3.0TD - UHF, Boost & EGT Gauges, NADS, Pro Vent 200, Snorkel, Tigged IC, 2" Lift, Dual Battery System & Still lots to come!
    Got a Patrol in WA CLICK HERE - Just Go There!

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    Expert mjr350's Avatar
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    I run 15amp cable from my aux battery to the rear for my fridge. Never had any issues.

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    Dman2603 (24th September 2015)

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    Patrol Guru ova50's Avatar
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    I also used 15amp to the sockets. Other wire sizes I used can be found here:
    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...attery-Install
    Was a CRD

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    Dman2603 (30th September 2015)

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    Expert Dman2603's Avatar
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    Yeah it would appear I have been given a lot of conflicting advice adding to my own bigger is better attitude! Well at least now I know I only have to run one feed & it can handle everything I ever throw at it!! Sounds like I just need a power distribution panel now!
    2006 GU IV ST MAN 3.0TD - UHF, Boost & EGT Gauges, NADS, Pro Vent 200, Snorkel, Tigged IC, 2" Lift, Dual Battery System & Still lots to come!
    Got a Patrol in WA CLICK HERE - Just Go There!

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    Patrol Guru ova50's Avatar
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    The sizes of the cable/wire I used was all purchased at a Jaycar store.
    The Main feed wire from the aux battery to the fuse box was Jaycar Cat No WH-3060 (rated at 56amps)
    Was a CRD

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    Dman2603 (30th September 2015)

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    Patrol Freak Bigcol's Avatar
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    horses for courses Dman
    I run 10mm cable to my Anderson for my Van
    (I dont know B&S cables.........- apart from Bachelor & Spinster, and I'm guessing thats not them)
    I run an 8mm cable to a fuse block on my cargo barrier - like this one
    IMG_2282_.jpg

    it feeds my Amp (for stereo) both my Engels, a ciggy socket and an Inverter to charge phones etc

    I also have a small fuse block under my 2nd glove box fed by 8mm cable- like this one
    fuse block.JPG
    it feeds the DVD head rests, 2 ciggy sockets in back of console, my UHF, my Polaris Camera setup

    as I said, horses for courses mate
    Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come

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    Patrol Guru blocko05's Avatar
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    As you can see Dman, lots of different opinions. If you use the heavy gauge cable from the front of your vehicle to the back of the vehicle then you will be able to add more things in the future knowing that you don't have to upgrade the cable to cope. If you are going to keep the vehicle for a long period of time then I would go the bigger cable and run it to a distribution block and tap in from there.

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    Dman2603 (30th September 2015)

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