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5th December 2015, 12:37 PM
#11
I am he, fear me
... in amongst all that you did check the fuse, yeah?
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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5th December 2015 12:37 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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5th December 2015, 01:04 PM
#12
Trying to check all connections etc but,
The 2 blue 100 amp fuses in engine bay fuse block don't want to pull out !!.
why not ??
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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5th December 2015, 01:25 PM
#13
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
... in amongst all that you did check the fuse, yeah?
yep .
last 2 to go
1 battery f/link.
1 glow plug f/link.
both the blue block types in e/bay.
but can't get em out.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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5th December 2015, 01:31 PM
#14
charging battery now,
was about 12.5v @ 87% before hand.
charger in the last 30 min or so, input 15 amps & up to 14v @ 94% charged.
think! I can safely rule out the battery.
Last edited by Robo; 5th December 2015 at 01:34 PM.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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5th December 2015, 02:22 PM
#15
Found the alt pos charge wire end link at fuse box.
This white wire joins to black/yellow stripe wire with a nut and bolt.
Resistance of white wire, back to alternator 0 ohms ,good result.
but still can't seem to remove blue 100 amp fuse to check that.
Do these fuses have some sort of clip or have they welded themselves together?.
I have even tried a pair of pliers on em they don't want to budge.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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5th December 2015, 02:35 PM
#16
Haha just noticed blue fuse for the charge wire has a bolt either side for the connections.
holding it onto the bottom of the fuse, here goes.
yep thats how you can get em out.
but probing either side will give a reading with the m/meter.
Arhh,now what it all checks out with the multi meter.
pita.
amongst all this I had to fit another radiator due to a third party.
at least came good and split the cost of replacement.
I need a holiday.
Last edited by Robo; 5th December 2015 at 03:07 PM.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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5th December 2015, 02:49 PM
#17
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
Robo
yep .
last 2 to go
1 battery f/link.
1 glow plug f/link.
both the blue block types in e/bay.
but can't get em out.
So the Alternator sense fuse (7.5 amp) is Ok as is the Warning lamp fuse (10 amp)
What is the resistance from the Black/Yellow junction (where it comes off White) to where it connects to the Sense terminal on the Alternator (should be yellow/Red IIRC)?
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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5th December 2015, 04:06 PM
#18
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
So the Alternator sense fuse (7.5 amp) is Ok as is the Warning lamp fuse (10 amp)
What is the resistance from the Black/Yellow junction (where it comes off White) to where it connects to the Sense terminal on the Alternator (should be yellow/Red IIRC)?
Sense 7.5 amp fuse ok.
alt light comes on with ign switch and goes out so that 10 amp should be ok
have checked white & black yellow too battery pos terminal, .1 was max resistance.
Humm have to separate the white and black/yellow and check resistance, but it was ok connected
The black/yellow & sense wire connection yet to find and check.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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5th December 2015, 06:21 PM
#19
Looks as if the yellow/red sensor wire is connected via its fuse to the metal buzz bar the black/yellow is connected within the fuse box housing? yes?.
that reads 0 resistance where the 7.5amp fuse insertion point.
so going by all that, presume that when "load" applied with engine actually running is the issue.
& just testing wire resistance isn't picking up on issue ??.
And doubled-tripple checked all fuses are ok
Last edited by Robo; 5th December 2015 at 09:32 PM.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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6th December 2015, 01:54 PM
#20
Going to try a jumper cables one at at time, see what happens.
Can someone comment please!
The load wire to dash warning light from alt shouldn't need replacing??
There is also a number of connections for these wires in question.
So maybe the physical connections are the issue and not the oem cables them selves?
For this perceived cable problem--
multi meter "cold cable" resistance readings aren't sufficient compared to real time load?.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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