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Today whilst driving my 04 GU three warning lights simultaneously lit up on my dash. The battery symbol (far right) exclamation in a circle (normally hand brake) and the orange Sub Tank (far left) lights all came on together. Very strange any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe alternator strangeness? help appreciated.
Yeah when an alternator is failing it will do funny things with the dash lights.
Are you able to test it?
Yep, I’ve experienced the same on another vehicle. It could just be that the brushes need replacing. That was the problem with mine & new brushes fixed the odd dash light issues.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Yes mine had the diodes fail, so it would charge fine but drain the battery very quickly when not running.
I had strange goings on with my dash lights too.
Funny though as mine would only come on at high revs.
As a veteran of two shagged alternators, I agree with the above. Watch out if you are getting the lights come on at high revs as stated by Winnie, in my case it was the regulator not working and the charge getting up to 19volts. Shagged the battery as well, but I had no option as I had to drive it home. If you have auto trans its a bugger as you have an electric interlock on the shifter. No battery, can't get it out of park.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
Last time all the dash lights came on I had a major malfunction with the Alternator.
As for just changing brushes I think the comutator needs to be machined as well
other wise you may only be charging using the edges of the brushes, which may charge
at a higher than normal rate of charge.
I now have 2 Baintech volt gauges on the centre facia so at a glance I can see if
charge rate is eratic
Last edited by threedogs; 18th August 2015 at 01:25 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
That combo of lights is the classic symptom of a shagged Alternator, supply or sense wiring.
They come on and stay on when the Alternator has low/no output.
Check the voltage at the battery terminals or Alternator with the engine running and if it is below 13.8 ish then that will be the problem
..
Problem --dash lights, ALT GLOW & WATER TRAP, would come on for a bit and then go out.
So I cleaned up the slip ring etc and new bearings problem went away.
(Cant recall voltage)
Later problem returned,
symptoms---- dash lights on again & engle fridge won't run now, only getting about 9 volts load tested power @ fridge.
Ok, power supply, voltage drop @ fridge.
Now only getting only 12.3 volts via alt charge post directly to battery earth or chassis with a multi meter.
Humm ok the alternator must be shagged,me thinks.
Stripped alternator again, brushes look suss, heavy carbon deposits on one side causing brushes to stick.
so going by thread, slip ring needs machining correctly and new brushes.
Gave a quick tart up, but voltage still low & fridge wont run still.
Still only 12.3 v @ alt again.
stuff it, go the whole hog, new alternator.
Now only 12.86 volts same test.
So I now assume either the battery has an issue or wires as mentioned.
At a glance @ the alt, wires looks ok doesn't look broken or corroded.
about to check battery with hydrometer,
but thinks it's alright, starting isn't an issue, car starts just fine.
and battery seems to charge ok with my jaycar 15amp smart charger.
What would be the problem I'm looking for with the wires exactly ?.
S wire = feeds battery voltage back to the alternator reg.
L = goes to dash light.
And alternator post wire = charge wire for battery.
Battery reading with hydrometer is ok
pulled sense wire from alt plug looks a good clean connection.
tested ohms reading back to 7.5amp fuse connection has zero resistance.
then test to bat pos terminal zero resistance also.
Last edited by Robo; 5th December 2015 at 12:52 PM.
Reason: more