OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29

Thread: TD42 water pumps... what would you be prepared to pay

  1. #1
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Thomastown, Melbourne
    Posts
    10,886
    Thanks
    5,478
    Thanked 6,277 Times in 3,275 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    TD42 water pumps... what would you be prepared to pay

    I have been doing some research into performance water pumps for the TD42 as they have a real cavatation issue and my 8 month old radiator has sprung a leak and will be replaced under warranty..

    Now there are 3 mobs I know of (interested if there are more)

    The first and not an option really as I have heard nothing but crap or average revues is the Patrolapart one for $249 that is a standard pump with a different impeller.

    The second is a bloke in Lilydale who swears by his product that he mainly sell to the Top End and WA and mostly for rigs towing with a much bigger impeller and larger bearing but still a stock housing for $550

    Third is a high performance mob who have been in the game for many many years and have a complete build with billet housing and a completely different impeller for $660.... this mob have built some of the quickest cars in the country and build many comp truck TD42's

    Hmmmm....?????

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #2
    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Morayfield, QLD
    Posts
    1,457
    Thanks
    428
    Thanked 1,062 Times in 615 Posts
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Mate, I'm interested in your comment on the TD42 water pumps having real cavitation issues.
    I recently purchased a Jap import TD42T engine that I'm guessing has around 100k on it. I was advised to remove the water pump to check the state of the timing cover as it's an indication of a badly worn engine.

    Here's a pic of what it looked like. If I polished the alloy it would look like new..
    There is really no sign of any cavitation problem there..

    I bought an original Nissan water pump for it.

    ...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

  4. #3
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Thomastown, Melbourne
    Posts
    10,886
    Thanks
    5,478
    Thanked 6,277 Times in 3,275 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Not sure if you are asking me a question or not??

    Are you talking about pitting in the gallery as this is not what I mean..

    Just checked the spelling and it should read "cavitation"

    And also Mark from JPC asked me to come down quickly so they could check something out as he had concerns my cooling system was pressurizing but I got the clean bill of health except for how my radiator is mounted plus it turns out me Copper/brass is Chinese....lol

  5. #4
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,749
    Thanks
    2,135
    Thanked 7,424 Times in 3,003 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I’m sure there is always room for improvement - at a cost. However with the TD42’s reputation for reliability & longevity it seems most unlikely to me that TD42’s have a 'real cavitation issue’. I could be wrong, but would have thought it would be ‘common knowledge’ if this were so. As I understand it (from a quick sqiz at google), in a diesel the most likely areas of cavitation damage is cylinder liners, heads & pump impellers. I didn’t find any mention of radiators specifically.

    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=c...FQEvpgodfq4O9A

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  6. #5
    Patrol Freak liftlid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    1,141
    Thanks
    46
    Thanked 472 Times in 307 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is your car getting hot?

  7. #6
    Patrol Freak garett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    south of the boarder
    Posts
    1,129
    Thanks
    46
    Thanked 820 Times in 501 Posts
    Mentioned
    19 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i think it would be more likely that the engine is earthing out through the coolant, this is unlikely but has happened. more likely a manufacturing issue.
    just my 2 cents worth
    if its worth doin its worth over doin

  8. #7
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    North brissy
    Posts
    8,200
    Thanks
    1,513
    Thanked 5,663 Times in 3,158 Posts
    Mentioned
    110 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Use a genuine one. Machine it so there is less clearance on the impeller. Have seen 3mm taken out to get the clearance at a respectable gap. Dont waste your money on those "performance" pumps.

    You can get a new genuine one landed for about $70.

  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to nissannewby For This Useful Post:

    Bloodyaussie (4th August 2015), Robo (5th August 2015)

  10. #8
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Thomastown, Melbourne
    Posts
    10,886
    Thanks
    5,478
    Thanked 6,277 Times in 3,275 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    Use a genuine one. Machine it so there is less clearance on the impeller. Have seen 3mm taken out to get the clearance at a respectable gap. Dont waste your money on those "performance" pumps.

    You can get a new genuine one landed for about $70.
    Trying to work out what you mean...

    Jpc tested my car today and said my cooling system is perfect and no issue of the engine pressurizing the cooling and i was told to get rid of my Chinese copper/brass radiator which is breaking apart.

    So new radiator is being made tomorrow and should be ready then if not Thursday.

    The other radiator has a warranty and will pick the new one up on Friday and sell it.
    I wish more gq owners used accurate temp gauges to compare with... i run a good digital job and find it much better than the dodge factory one.

  11. #9
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    North brissy
    Posts
    8,200
    Thanks
    1,513
    Thanked 5,663 Times in 3,158 Posts
    Mentioned
    110 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Which bit.

  12. #10
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Thomastown, Melbourne
    Posts
    10,886
    Thanks
    5,478
    Thanked 6,277 Times in 3,275 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    Which bit.
    Where do you do the machining??

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •