Please help with buying advice on a GU ute

[Dauntless]

Hi everyone,

Recently I had a test drive of a 99 GU ute, leaf spring rear with turbo TD42 and 300,000km on it. I quite liked it actually, very comfortable compared to other utes I've driven and it was nice to drive on the road.

I have a few questions though. It looks quite clean , however the seller told me it's been resprayed at some point. Do GUs commonly rust like GQs do? Is there anything in particular I should look for? I couldn't see any obvious accident damage.

I don't know what spec level it is, however it doesn't have flares on the guards. Does this mean it's a DX?

How can I tell if it's a factory turbo engine? It has a factory looking crossover pipe, and a very small low mounted turbo.

It didn't feel overly powerful. I'm not sure it went any better than the NA GQ I've driven. Is this normal or a sign of a problem? There wasn't an obvious point on when the turbo spools up, so I assume given its size it makes boost from near idle? Apart from this, it started easily and sounded healthy.

The owner has used it to tow his fishing boat, and said on long hills at low speed the temperature gauge gets up to about 3/4. I've read plenty of TD42 overheating stories, so how much of a concern is this? Should I stay away?

I only found a few minor issues. The handbrake lever is loose and rattles, the gauge cluster lense is badly cracked/heat damaged, and the panhard rod bushes are a bit worn out.

The seller wants 13.5k, does this sound reasonable?

Thanks!

[Cuppa]

The price sounds reasonable, but I’d be going over it with a magnet to check to see if any rust holes have been filled. Not because it’s a GU, but because it’s been used for launching a boat. Sounds like it’s a DX if no flares. If so it will also have no low fuel light, no air bags & no sound insulation on the wall behind the seats. I also expect that you will find more to fix once you’ve bought it. Provided you are budgeting for extra stuff to fix then it may still be worth considering. My reason for saying I reckon you’ll find more is that the descrption of the car you’ve given is not that of a car which has had pride taken in it. My advice would be to arrange for a 4wd mechanical service to do a pre-purchase inspection for you. Should cost you $100 to $200 & could save you heaps. I did this with mine & got bargaining power which saved me over $2k & offered me the reassurance I needed that the car was basically sound. If the seller is not interested in cooperating with an inspection like this - wak away.

It’s probably a factory turbo. When I bought my ’06 DX TD42i ute it also didn’t feel very powerful & like you I couldn’t tell when the turbo kicked in, only that it pulled better once up to certain revs. A 3” exhaust & dynotune have since given a significant improvement & made the car what I think it should have been from Nissan.

I’ve never seen my temp gauge fgo over just under half. A fairly severe test is towing a heavy trailer from Melbourne to Ballarat, which over many kilometres takes you ever upwards. I did this last weekend towing a tandem trailer with a load of timber. The factory temp gauge virtually didn’t move (normal), but my Redarc gauge saw temps varying between 80deg.C up to 95degC . You could watch the temp rise & fall according to the gradient. If I saw the factory temp gauge rise to ¾ I’d be worried. If I were to buy the vehicle I’d look at taking it to a radiator joint to get it rodded/cleaned.

[Dauntless]

Thanks for the info.

I forgot to mention that it's currently on the second owner, who has only owned it for about a year but now wants a wagon. It was the first owner who had it resprayed.

Is there anything in particular I should look at before buying? It would be difficult to arrange a mechanic to inspect it given the location.

Is there a definite way to identify it as a factory turbo? An external difference on the engine, or something on the build plate, VIN or engine number?

[threedogs]

Do you need a leaf rear ute?
You mention a lot of things wrong with it.
Id keep looking, plenty of bargains out there
waiting to be found.

[Cuppa]

There has to be a mechanical service familiar with 4wd’s (& preferably familiar with Patrols) which is accessible. You speak to them first & then tell buyer who arranges to take the car to them. They give you the report, either written or possibly by phone. Just make sure it’s not the seller’s mate doing the inspection. Not saying it will happen, but there is a potential to buy & then find you’re into a bottomless money pit. Much more to go wrong with a 4wd than a 2wd, none of it cheap. I would also advise against buying it without a roadworthy for the same reasons. A 300k TD42 GU is desirable, & the price is on the low side. For the reasons mentioned previously caution is advised. It may be a real bargain, but it could very easily not be. Your call, but it’s very easy to want to trust someone & to talk yourself into things.

I’m not certain, but would expect a TD42 with a factory turbo to have a plate which says TD42T. Others here should be able to confirm that.

[Dauntless]

Thanks guys.

Where would I look for this plate which says TD42T?

Yeah, I'd prefer a leaf spring rear. Less chance of doing damage when I load it up. People say they're rough but I found this to ride really well, even with empty rear tank and alloy tray. Part of the test drive was a 100km/h section of badly potholed road and it was fine. So much more comfortable than my Hilux.

What sort of things would be checked by the mechanic? I can try to arrange something but I don't know of any decent mechanics in the area.

[Dauntless]

I bought it for 12k. Pics to come.