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6th July 2015, 11:58 PM
#1
Expert
Battery maintenance
Hi all, hope someone might point me in the right direction.
i work away from home for 4 weeks at a time and i have noticed that when i get back my car is getting harder to start.
sounds like my battery doesn't like me been away for so long (either do i for that matter..lol )
so i am in need of a battery charger/maintenance to keep my battery alive.
so i have been looking around but not sure what way to go.
solar is no go as the panel would be knocked off by some one to easily.
so i need a plug in type..
and can i leave the battery connected to the car during this process?
any ideas would be greatfull
thanx in advance
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6th July 2015 11:58 PM
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7th July 2015, 12:27 AM
#2
Legendary
Some of the machinery I work on is used for an hour or so every couple of days. This means that they are started, run for a bit then shut down for two or three days. The batteries tend to ramp down so they go flat over a few weeks. I install a "battery minder" which is a regulated charger, about the size of a ciggi packet which is connected permanently to the battery. When you are not using the motor you plug it in to an extension cord and it trickle charges at about 1.5 amps max. They are used on boats as well and are available on line or from boat or battery shops. Cost from $50 to $150 depending on make.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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7th July 2015, 12:29 AM
#3
Legendary
Sorry forgot - yes they are left connected to the car all the time, just unplug the extension cord.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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7th July 2015, 11:06 AM
#4
Patrol God
you may also have a small short ,
check how many volts are in your battery next time before you start it.
OR dis-connect the battery while you are away.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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7th July 2015, 02:05 PM
#5
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
Malgreen
snip...
so i need a plug in type..
and can i leave the battery connected to the car during this process?
any ideas would be greatfull
thanx in advance
I use these... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTEK-XS0-...item43bfce09dd
Work great for your needs, won't screw the battery etc.
I replace the 36 and 55 AH standby batteries out in the field every 5 years even tho they still test better than 90% capacity.
They are spec'd to 100 AH capacity but I've had no issues with 110 AH.
If you want the extra capacity then these will be your best choice http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTEK-12V-...item5d436fef6e
CTEK are pretty awesome quality wise.
Last edited by the evil twin; 7th July 2015 at 02:08 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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8th July 2015, 12:38 AM
#6
Expert
Hi Evil..
yep i think Ctek is the way to go..
might even get the bigger one up .. this is the link , what do you think?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTEK-MXS5...item1c39756dde
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10th July 2015, 07:02 PM
#7
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Malgreen
Hi all, hope someone might point me in the right direction.
i work away from home for 4 weeks at a time and i have noticed that when i get back my car is getting harder to start.
sounds like my battery doesn't like me been away for so long (either do i for that matter..lol )
so i am in need of a battery charger/maintenance to keep my battery alive.
so i have been looking around but not sure what way to go.
solar is no go as the panel would be knocked off by some one to easily.
so i need a plug in type..
and can i leave the battery connected to the car during this process?
any ideas would be greatfull
thanx in advance
I use these ones.
The first one is a pulse charger. Second one is a three stage smart charger.
They both have been doing a good job for nearly two years now.
I can say the pulse charger is a really good one for trickle charging as well
. It goes to trickle mode once the battery is fully charged.
Or if it's already charged, it goes to trickle mode.
The smart charger also goes to trickle mode once the battery is fully charged.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-Volt-S...item1a02b7c8fc
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-240V-...item1c4670d91e
The above are budget ones, but they are pretty good for the price. They do the job for me.
Above.20 amp one charges a battery fairly quickly.
There's also a 40 amp one on fleabay for around $80 or so.
I haven't tried it, so I can't recommend it, yet.
Multi stage batteries that employ more than three stages are better.
They are usually lot more expensive, but may worth the money depend on how much you spend on your batteries. CTek ones are usually good stuff, but a 20 amp one can be pretty pricey. Ctek ones are worth the money for expensive deep cycle batteries. Those batteries can go for 5-10 years with a good charger.
I've been pulse charging(with the above budget pulse charger) one of my 4WD cranking batteries that I bought second hand for $70 over two years ago. The battery still cranks like hell. I pulse charge is once a month or so with the above pulse charger.
So, it's obvious that maintaining with a good charger makes a hell lot of a difference for the longevity of a battery, both cranking and deep cycle.
Last edited by dom14; 10th July 2015 at 07:22 PM.
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10th July 2015, 07:50 PM
#8
Patrol Freak
ctek all the way check out the range for one that's suits all your applications required
07 crd,,bridgestone 697lt, 2.75 buedesert ex,
SOLD theres a lot of my blood, sweat and money in that troll.
92 gq ti tb42efi my brothers gq extractors dual batteries brake controller uhf alloy bullbar
SOLD with a heavy heart but gone to a nice young fella
13 y62 the beast that burbles
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10th July 2015, 09:00 PM
#9
To check for a small back leak ( battery drain ) get a el cheapo multi meter with the " 10amp function " turn everything off, close doors etc
Remove Negative ( Black lead ) from you vehicle, Now on your multimeter move the RED lead to the socket that says 10A, then turn the meter dial to the 10A setting
Put the multimeter red lead to the vehicle Negative and the multimeter black lead to your battery ( or vice versa, one way will read something like 0.05A other way around will read -0.05a)
You are putting the meter in series with the battery so don't try and start or turn anything on as the meter is rated to 10amp.
Screen will tell you how many Amps your vehicle is drawing with everything turned off, There will always be a little draw, this is your ECU, Clock, Radio memorys etc and some cars stay "awake" for a few seconds after you put the meter in series, so Amps may jump up a little then settle down.
Hope that makes sense in text format, if you get stuck flick me a PM and i will give you my number, or if you ever come down to Perth myself of one of the boys in the workshop can check it for you
Also the Ctek maintenance charger's are the ducks nuts for keeping your batteries going.
Macka
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to -Macka- For This Useful Post:
4bye4 (10th July 2015), blocko05 (28th July 2015), dom14 (11th July 2015), Malgreen (18th July 2015)
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11th July 2015, 06:42 PM
#10
Legendary
Very well written parasitic draw test.
A good example of how good a job a clear writing can do.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to dom14 For This Useful Post:
-Macka- (11th July 2015), Malgreen (18th July 2015)