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9th July 2015, 09:52 PM
#31
my patrol is auto has the same random power loses
GU8 Simpson Pack-Auto 2" lift, Dual Batts
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9th July 2015 09:52 PM
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9th July 2015, 09:53 PM
#32
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
vfamily
my patrol is auto has the same random power loses
You know when I was talking to him about the clutch possibly being at fault, I thought of your same issues... But makes one think though.
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9th July 2015, 10:01 PM
#33
Patrol Guru
If you are getting a click/clack sound from the clutch it might be the flywheel (dual mass).
When you lose power does the engine feel OK but no speed or does the engine start to struggle?
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
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9th July 2015, 10:12 PM
#34
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Rock Trol
If you are getting a click/clack sound from the clutch it might be the flywheel (dual mass).
When you lose power does the engine feel OK but no speed or does the engine start to struggle?
I don't think engine ever struggles or hesitates... It's just hard to tell and explain. One set of lights, the car's response / accelerator is very sharp and responsive, takes of like a rocket, from take 1st gear to fifth. Few minutes later, the next set of lights, or sometimes longer...the accelerator is very spongy, car has power, but takes forever to get up to speed compared to moment ago when it was all good. And when this happens the boost maxes out and EGT's go higher than usual very quickly.
Once again, high EGTs means fuel is being pumped in, boost is created and held but power is not being transfered from there onwards... I just don't know.
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9th July 2015, 10:28 PM
#35
Patrol Guru
Boost is measured in the Intercooler so that must mean that the butterfly is open. There is nothing else between the intercooler and intake valves that I can think off. Is your egr blocked? Hi boost normally equates to low egt's. I wonder if its a sensor causing the problem so that the ECU is receiving the wrong information. Crank angle sensor for instance. If it sends wrong signal then timing is off. Do you get black smoke when you lose power?
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
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9th July 2015, 10:38 PM
#36
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Rock Trol
Boost is measured in the Intercooler so that must mean that the butterfly is open. There is nothing else between the intercooler and intake valves that I can think off. Is your egr blocked? Hi boost normally equates to low egt's. I wonder if its a sensor causing the problem so that the ECU is receiving the wrong information. Crank angle sensor for instance. If it sends wrong signal then timing is off. Do you get black smoke when you lose power?
Sensors could be a possibility. It's just, why is it good one moment, and not so good the next...
My car does not smoke one bit. I have had a few people drive behind me at various speeds from Melbourne to the high country, up hills, flat roads... Various types of rd. And I asked for them to look out for any smoke from my Patrol and they said there was absolutely none!
There is the butterfly/swirl valve in the intake, as well as the eletronic throttle valve between the IC and intake. Pic below. As the discussion with Mudski earlier in the thread, the swirl valve MAYBE sticking. * shrugs *
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9th July 2015, 10:45 PM
#37
Patrol God
I also forgot to mention to you, that boost maxes out quicker than usual when it's in a bad mood... So normal driving I rarely go over 17-18. My wastegate is set to 20Psi. When the car is in a bad mood, it hits 20 fairly quick. Which is why the guy at JPC thinks that boost builds up quicker at intercooler, where the sensor is, but something is restricting it going further... Hence the though about the swirl or throttle valve maybe sticking?
His idea is to chuck a boost gauge in the inlet manifold and compare the PSI in there with the PSI at my usual sensor (intercooler).
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9th July 2015, 10:53 PM
#38
Patrol Guru
That makes sense then. It explains the lack of power and high boost. Sounds like a difficult part to get to though.
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
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9th July 2015, 10:54 PM
#39
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Rock Trol
That makes sense then. It explains the lack of power and high boost. Sounds like a difficult part to get to though.
The said parts are easy to work on. But you have the complete fuel system assembly right above it, preventing full access. The rail, filter, all fuel lines are right there and would have to be removed to get to it.
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10th July 2015, 03:45 PM
#40
Patrol Freak
mine always the same 2.75 ex steinbauer on 5 egr blocked smooth and consistent.
07 crd,,bridgestone 697lt, 2.75 buedesert ex,
SOLD theres a lot of my blood, sweat and money in that troll.
92 gq ti tb42efi my brothers gq extractors dual batteries brake controller uhf alloy bullbar
SOLD with a heavy heart but gone to a nice young fella
13 y62 the beast that burbles
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