Rust protection compounds

[yazz22]

Cortec out of the USA do rust protection compounds

[Parksy]

Long time no see and I thought I'd post an update picture as its been over a year!



As you can clearly see, the marine grease mixed with the beeswax is a clear winner. This piece of steel has been out in direct sunlight the entire time. So my assumption is it would work better if used underneath a car.
You can see how I've smeared it onto the steel, using a single finger. Better results would be had if I had applied even coverage.

Cheers

[mudnut]

I have seen a few paragraphs about a bloke who applied lanolin to a stripped car body and then left it outside for 3 years before any rust formed.

It may have been the idea for inox or lanotec. I have found that fish oil is great on the inside of panels and doors, but tends to go milky when applied to external components and exposed to prolonged periods of rain.

Does the marine grease, beeswax mix leach contaminants / form an oil trail when exposed to rain?

[Parksy]

Doesn't seem to leach/run at all. It has dried to form a skin and water just beads off.

[Arfa Brayne]

There has been a few products over the years that run a similar idea and have worked well, Waxoyl was very much like your idea but used parrafin instead of beeswax.
Maybe a combination of beeswax and lanolin would be the "bees knees" (sorry, couldn't resist) in rustproofing.

The biggest failing in all rustproofing applications is usually how it's applied. I remember doing "Rust-rid" in our workshop back in the 80's, the product was good, the equipment was probably the best to this day, but "Rust-rid" only allowed 1xhour and 1 litre of product per vehicle. I used between 3-4 litres per vehicle and took 3-4 hours plus cleanup.
"Rust-rid" came down to "set me straight", but the workshop owner backed me up. He told the Rust-rid boys we were a small country dealership on the oceanfront, and it was more important to do a good job than a cheap job because our reputation was on the line. Top Boss.

20 years later the local cars we had rustproofed were still puttering around town in the salt spray mist, while cars of visiting tourists with "Rust-rid" stickers on the back windscreen were a running joke - the only thing that didn't rust was the sticker.

In my opinion fish oil works the best (don't know where to buy rust-rid nowdays, they went broke) - but fish oil needs to be applied every 5 years, or when you can't smell it anymore. No need for the stinky stuff - deodorised works fine, just a light non fishy smell.
Case in point was my aunt's '68 Mini panel van - these things would rust out if a dog pi$$ed on the wheels, but she fish oiled it every 3 years for 34 years of ownership and parked it morning and night by the surf beach for fishing the gutters for whiting, flattys, jewfish, salmon or taylor. The thing copped more salt spray and less washes than dole-bludger surfie, and was always full of sand, fishing tackle and wet beach towels. When she sold it, the only rust on it was some surface ginger on the roof and bonnet where the paint had worn thin from being parked outside it's entire life.

[Dirtydog16]

Long time no see and I thought I'd post an update picture as its been over a year!



As you can clearly see, the marine grease mixed with the beeswax is a clear winner. This piece of steel has been out in direct sunlight the entire time. So my assumption is it would work better if used underneath a car.
You can see how I've smeared it onto the steel, using a single finger. Better results would be had if I had applied even coverage.

Cheers

Hey g'day Parksy,

Could you tell us the order from the pointy end.

Also in this post you said the wax and grease were the best option but on the previous page I thought you said the was by itself was best.

Cheers!

DD16

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