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29th March 2015, 09:07 AM
#11
Expert
I very rarely use cds/dvds anymore. All my music is on a small stick but a rear mounted one on a lead would be better because ive lost count how many times ive almost snapped the little stick when going to change gears.
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29th March 2015 09:07 AM
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29th March 2015, 09:54 AM
#12
..........
It would be very unlikely you would buy another stereo with the same problem, it is not common for them to cause interference like this.
I have a rear usb socket with ext lead to centre console and as others have said it is a better way to have it.
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29th March 2015, 01:06 PM
#13
I am he, fear me
Agree with TPC, very unusual problem to encounter these days and 99.9% must be an internal fault in that specific head unit.
I have only used Chinnee Head Units for 10 years or so now and they have all been quite reasonable performers.
In the name brands Alpine seem to have hit a good price point versus features but I think you could purchase whatever caught your eye without any issues
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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29th March 2015, 01:40 PM
#14
Patrol God
Humour me,Cuppa, and wrap all of the unit and its cables in alfoil, (without shorting out anything). Turn it on for a short time and see if the problem disappears.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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29th March 2015, 02:26 PM
#15
Legendary
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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29th March 2015, 02:47 PM
#16
Patrol God
Yeah. And put some slits near the top and bottom to let air circulate. I just want to see if it is feeding a high frequency back into the loom.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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29th March 2015, 02:52 PM
#17
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
mudnut
Yeah. And put some slits near the top and bottom to let air circulate. I just want to see if it is feeding a high frequency back into the loom.
... as soon as you slit the Alfoil it negates the Faraday effect.
If you think it is the loom that is radiating (which it certainly could be) you have to wrap and earth the loom.
Wrapping the device will have no effect on the loom which will still be free to act as an antenna
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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29th March 2015, 07:54 PM
#18
Expert
Build a faraday's cage around your whole car. then sit on the roof and use your uhf
Flip er on er wheels, she'll run!
4.2 Diesel GQ 4" King'n'ProComp Lift, 33's, Gu steer box conversion, custom drawers and a heavy right foot. Turbo kit, quarter chop and a heap of barwork coming very soon!
A
BIG thanks to Johnny at Repco Northside Rocky for always sourcing me the gear and parts I need ASAP
You've saved me many times.
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29th March 2015, 10:56 PM
#19
Travelling Podologist
It may be a little while before I try accessing the unit to earth it (or wrap it) as other things are taking precedence. Having removed the rooftop tent I’m currently in the middle of splitting up my portable solar panels (5 x 60w) & mounting them to the roof. It’s a job which is taking far more time than I’d considered it would. Using only Sikaflex 11fc to glue the mounts to the roof (rather than Sika’s far more expensive & harder to work with 252) has meant painstakingly taking off paint so I can glue direct to aluminium to achieve the strongest bond. The panels themselves are bolted to the mounts using riv nuts. (Believe me I’ve just about had enough of working on my knees up on top of the pod!). However I’ll certainly follow up on suggestions at some point, & report back. For the time being if I go out & need to use the CB if out 4wd’ing with others, pulling the radio fuse will suffice, but in the long term it’s a solution which wouldn’t work for long distance travel/communicating with other travellers, truckies etc.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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30th March 2015, 01:05 AM
#20
Legendary
Maybe put an inline switch to save having to pull the fuse every time. Only as a temp measure I mean.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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