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Thread: 24v electrical nightmare

  1. #11
    Patrol Guru ova50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    what are you getting off the back of the alternator volt wise, Alterator could be poling
    Also is it live when the motor is running or turned off
    Is it possible for a stater motor to do the same?
    Was a CRD

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  3. #12
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    ill put some better pics up once i put batteries back in and wired up those picks are from a few weeks ago. and im in forrestfield wa. she got a professional tummy tuck, ill put compliance plate picture up to if people would like to see it?

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    Ok so when you disconnect the positive from the first (LHS looking from the front) battery, you still have the issues. I am assuming you don't have any Aux (third) battery connected up anywhere? Kinda got me stumped as well but going to throw some ideas out there..

    The way they are wired up (guessing its the same as my Safari) is :

    You draw power from the LHS Positive Battery
    A long cable runs from the LHS negative across the front of the car (behind grill from memory) to the Positive of the RHS battery
    The RHS Battery negative is then earthed to body etc

    How much voltage do you have? Is it leaking 12v or 24v or??..From memory Oil pressure and water temp gauges are 12v (run from a little invertor in the back quarter panel) so may help point in the right direction.

    By the look of it though you have something connected to the second battery (RHS) so using it for a 12v Source?

    This may explain why you see two different voltages on the batteries. Although I would expect to see the RHS battery lower. If you keep drawing 12v off one battery you will find your battery life is effected and unfortunately with a 24v truck once one goes its a good idea to replace both as the old one will bring the new one down to its level. You can buy battery equalisers, but even they are not perfect.

    My first check would be to see if there is any broken insulation on the cable that joins the two batteries (from LHS Neg to RHS Pos) that was shorting out. Even disconnecting the positive from the LHS battery would still leave 12v coming from the RHS battery. So what voltage is leaking? What happens when you pull both the LHS pos and RHS Neg off? Does the problem stay/go away? The fact that when you pull the pos from the first battery and still have stray current got me thinking along these lines. But then again you say you have checked and replaced all of the battery cables so kinda rules this one out..

    Pull ANY after market wiring off the batteries leaving only the basic (standard) wiring to run the car.
    If the problem goes away, add the extra wiring back one by one and see which one causes the problem.

    As 3Dogs said..do things one by one..Its just going to be a matter of taking your time and taking things out of the equation.
    Last edited by doka404; 28th March 2015 at 08:52 AM.

  5. #14
    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    "Pull ANY after market wiring off the batteries leaving only the basic (standard) wiring to run the car.
    If the problem goes away, add the extra wiring back one by one and see which one causes the problem."
    Gotta agree with that.
    Also measure voltage on batteries with everything disconnected.
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


    And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.

  6. #15
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    "Pull ANY after market wiring off the batteries leaving only the basic (standard) wiring to run the car.
    If the problem goes away, add the extra wiring back one by one and see which one causes the problem."
    Gotta agree with that.
    Also measure voltage on batteries with everything disconnected.
    sounds very logical to me doing it that way
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    sounds very logical to me doing it that way
    I got that bit from doka404. Just making sure credit goes to the right person. Or the blame if it does't work. LOL
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


    And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to 4bye4 For This Useful Post:

    threedogs (28th March 2015)

  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    I got that bit from doka404. Just making sure credit goes to the right person. Or the blame if it does't work. LOL
    I am happy to share the blame lol

  10. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to doka404 For This Useful Post:

    4bye4 (28th March 2015), threedogs (28th March 2015)

  11. #18
    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    Extremely logical... I told OP to do that back in #5

    The only way the chassis can actually be "live" WRT to supply -ve is a high resistance path to Chassis from the Supply.

    That could/will be why his 12 Volt instrumentation is playing up, it isn't getting 12 volts WRT to chassis anymore.

    On a 24 Volt system the chassis will appear live from the RH battery -ve (it will be 12 volts WRT earth obviously).
    But if the OP is connecting a test lamp to LH side -ve and putting the probe on the engine or chassis and the lamp is illuminating then his "earth" isn't an earth IE the earth cable is high resistance.
    It could be the engine to chassis earth.

    His mention of the globe being brighter at different points screams earthing issue but as we have all mentioned, the only way to go is start at a logical point and go one step at a time.

    Best check will be to put the test lamp on the chassis/engine end of the earth cable and go back to battery -ve.
    Light on = battery cable faulty
    Light off = battery cable OK
    If light is off then go to Engine and Chassis and wherever the lamp glows is the broken earth strapping
    Last edited by the evil twin; 28th March 2015 at 12:02 PM.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

  12. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to the evil twin For This Useful Post:

    doka404 (28th March 2015), MudRunnerTD (26th April 2019), threedogs (28th March 2015)

  13. #19
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    looks clean enough the patrol that is and looks well looked after {loved]
    like all Patrols should be, seems strange its just happened,,,,,,,, as we all know
    something had to occur for it to happen, IMO we'll have to wait till he starts ripping wires off
    and just seeing whats what.
    Mudski for eg re-did a few earths and created more problems, and sounds similar to me
    but on a smaller scale
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:

    doka404 (28th March 2015)

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    hey guys sorry for not answering back, trust me i have already done that, that was one of the first thing i done was eliminate any after market wiring. and doka404 no there is no 3rd battery and sitting in cab the lhs battery is the 2nd battery in the loop. it goes to earth. i have replaced all positive and earth cable aswell as check resistance for each circuit no signs of shorts yet. im about to install the batteries and see if it was the cable if it hasnt fixed it ill share a video of it. cheers guys

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