What to get checked/serviced before a big trip

[Supa]

Hi All,
I am in the process of getting my 2008 CRD prepared for 3 months on the road in some remote areas and wanted to pick the collective brains trust about what I should get checked, tested or serviced.

The vehicle has done 112 000km and been serviced by a dealer regularly, I purchased it at just under 100 000km (ex Telstra ute)

I rang West End Diesel today and asked their recommendations as they have a fairly good reputation and I have been there before. The gent I spoke to said they will do a service replace all filters oils etc and also recommended an injector test ($90 an injector)

A local guy near me said not to bother with an injector test unless you are experiencing any problems.

Both of them suggested a water trap if I was going into outback areas. West end suggested the water-watch at about $800 fitted and the other guy said the water watch is good but expensive because it has an alarm whereas any other good trap will do the same job you just have to keep an eye on it.

Anyway, I am after suggestions (although I may regret asking) as to what specific issues are worth getting checked on the CRD.
By the way I have already fitted a provent catch can, egt gauge, DP chip and 3 inch exhaust in the last month.


Cheers
Stephen

[threedogs]

I'd be taking my 4x4 to a 4x4 shop so they could give it a once over.
these guys work on them day in day out. The shops around me all raced Patrols
so know what breaks etc

[Hodge]

IN my opinion the secondary filter is your first thing. #1 killer of common rails is dirty fuel / water in fuel. Water watch is way overpriced. I had the Fuel manager 3 micron fitted for under $300 from memory.

[Stropp]

x2 on a reputable 4x4 shop, i have a guy who owns one and thats all he does so i trust him for all my servicing.

[happygu]

Stephen,

If your car is in good nick, you have had it serviced recently and they haven't come up with any major issues, then a good pre trip inspection is really your only 'must do'.

I would try to visually inspect the EGR Valve and pipework ( these can warp or crack causing a high pitch whistle ), carefully check exhaust studs as these can stretch as allow the manifold to warp ( again high pitch whistle when cold ), check all hoses and clamps, but most of this stuff won't stop you at all - it will just inconvenience you

I would check battery voltages in the morning after the car has sat overnight or for a couple of nights, as a dead battery in the middle of nowhere is a real pain.

Make sure you have fairly good tread on your tyres to help prevent punctures, and buy LT type tyres over the standard road tyres as these will give you better stake resistance from sidewall tears and damage.


Your next major service, which includes all fluids, checking & repacking of your front hubs and wheel bearings, and checking of all vehicle electronic systems is due at 120,000klms, and even though it costs extra from Nissan ( $1200 ) than going through an independent service agent ( $700 - $900 ), you may want to give this one to Nissan and pull this service forward a little depending on how long and how many kilometres you will do till you leave. This should give you some peace of mind before leaving. ( The prices may be cheaper for the ute over the wagon )



Alternatively, you could plan this into your trip, and get this done on the way, but you will lose a whole day, have to get your truck to the service centre and find your way back somewhere to wait, and if they do find anything majorly wrong ..... then you might be waiting for a while for parts ...

I think that you would be better off doing it early, and scheduling in an extra dealer oil change in the middle of your trip somewhere, as then they can give it another check over then after you have rattled along for a while.



I spent just under a month from Melbourne to Alice Springs and back ... double crossing of the Simpson ...... and never gave it too much thought, as my truck had been regularly serviced and I always try to fill up where there is a lot of activity so the fuel is constantly being turned over ( fresh and doesn't get as much time to absorb moisture ), try to use the same chain ( for me BP, but that isn't always possible in the sticks ), try to stick to the major fuel outlets where there is less likelihood of cheaper additives or tampered fuels ( NO Bio-Diesel, NO independents for me in a modern diesel, especially in the middle of nowhere where it might sit in the tank for longer ) .... so this means it isn't always the cheapest fuel in town.

I just made sure that I took some specific spares which are known problem points on the 3 Litre Diesels ..... A Spare Belt Tensioner, and Belt ( the tensioner is a known failure point, which could take out the belt too ), and a set of rear wheel stud and nuts ( as these can be used in the front too ( the rear studs are longer than the fronts, and can be used in the front even though they will break through the end of the encapsulated nuts - better to have wheels attached than one sitting beside the truck ). I took stretchy self adhering silicon tape to temporarily fix any split hoses. That is it .....

I bought a new air filter in Alice as mine was quite dirty when I got in there - same price or even cheaper than Melbourne.

Mic

[FNQGU]

When did you last pull your radiator and have it and the block flushed and pressure checked? The cooling system is one of the most important (and often overlooked) things to maintain.

Maybe get someone to go over your aircon while you are at it too.

[Supa]

Thanks for all the suggestions,

I have been seeing my local mechanic for about 20 years. He is a four wheel drive enthusiast and he his wife and son all have very nicely setup 4x4s that actually get off road regularly (although they are all landcruisers so nobody is perfect).

I trust him to do the right thing I only asked the question to see if there is any merit in going to one of the diesel specialist shops that get talked about. On reflection it seems to not be necessary if my regular guy is OK.

Sounds like the water trap is worth the effort and I have done a bit of a search and it seems there are some kits that come with a bracket specifically for the GU making install pretty easy.

Happygu thanks for the detailed response certainly some great advice, have never considered a service from a Nissan service centre mainly because there has never been one convenient to home or work but a huge new one was just built down the road from me and maybe worth considering.

Had planned a service in Broome, at this stage will have crossed the Simpson via Hay River track the Tanami and Gibb River Rd
Also good advice about the spares. Always carry a belt and filters but not a tensioner so might replace the existing one and keep it as a spare. Always carry wheel nuts but never thought of studs. Silicone repair tape is always in the car, fixes everything.

Cheers
Stephen

[threedogs]

maybe even replace the stupid looking OE hose clamps for some decent stainless steel numbers.
Im just about to replace all mine with constant pressure clamps