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15th March 2015, 09:06 PM
#11
CERTIFIABLY INSANE
Seriously, I jacked mine up and had no play in the wheels/hubs.... I said f@ck it and did the kingpin bearings anyway and I'm glad I did because they were rooted.
I don't reckon you'll feel any play unless its ridiculously bad and I'm not joking when I say mine were rooted.
It's possible that the wobble is another issue previously masked by the swivel hubs in the past. Since I did mine, it's like a new car.
I'd take it back and tell them to fix what they screwed up.
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1997 GQ Patrol RX, TB42E. Mods: OME 2" lift, 33" BFG KM2'S, ARB winch bar & reconditioned X9 Superwinch, IPF 900 spotties HID conversion, ARB side steps and scrub bars, Kaymar rear step & spare wheel carrier & jerry holder, Rear 55W LED worklight, Safari Snorkel, 147L LRA tank, Extended diff breathers, dual batteries, GME UHF, Home built drawer and fridge slide, ARB 60L fridge.
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15th March 2015 09:06 PM
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15th March 2015, 09:23 PM
#12
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Drewboyaus
Seriously, I jacked mine up and had no play in the wheels/hubs.... I said f@ck it and did the kingpin bearings anyway and I'm glad I did because they were rooted. I don't reckon you'll feel any play unless its ridiculously bad and I'm not joking when I say mine were rooted. It's possible that the wobble is another issue previously masked by the swivel hubs in the past. Since I did mine, it's like a new car. I'd take it back and tell them to fix what they screwed up. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Yea I'm with you. A worn king pin is hard to feel. It's more wheel bearings which will show.
Have a quick flick threw Darren's (mudrunner) swivel hub rebuild thread. He goes over the wheel bearings side of things so see if you have the tools to give it a nip up.
It really isn't hard if you some Allen keys and spanners.
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15th March 2015, 09:30 PM
#13
during a re build, when the axles get put back in, there is a pair of flats on the CV joint, im only guessing here but do they have to go in 90* opposed to each other that is left and right or do you just toss them in no matter where they end up as such
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16th March 2015, 01:13 AM
#14
Patrol Freak
Cv turns when in 4wd so position doesn't matter. I've done mine a few times, helped mates a couple as well and never worried about where the flats on the cv go.
Until my last off road trip I had no wobbles. I do now but that because of mud in the back of the rims that I haven't washed out yet.
1999 GU DUAL FUEL 4.5 - 2" OME - 33's KM2s - SNORKEL - CUSTOM DINTS.... Goes by the name Candy (the car not me
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16th March 2015, 07:18 AM
#15
Patrol God
I would personally do a alignment.
Hopefully they removed the tie rod and drag links when doing the swivel hubs and just didn't let them hang on the rods. So even if something was accidentally turned 1 turn it'll be all out.
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16th March 2015, 08:28 AM
#16
Check your panhard rod bushes. If these are worn you will most certainly have wobbles. As for you up and down shakes. If your tyres are going out of round, shockers i would be looking at.
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16th March 2015, 05:49 PM
#17
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
crash520
during a re build, when the axles get put back in, there is a pair of flats on the CV joint, im only guessing here but do they have to go in 90* opposed to each other that is left and right or do you just toss them in no matter where they end up as such
Originally Posted by
lhurley
Cv turns when in 4wd so position doesn't matter. I've done mine a few times, helped mates a couple as well and never worried about where the flats on the cv go.
The pair of flats on a Birfield are only so you can get it in and out of the trunnion which is "flattened" top and bottom for the king pin bearings so you need flats on the Birfield to be top and bottom to clear the housing.
Given that there is a diff involved with the CV's if you try and phase them in any way, say 90 deg, as soon as one wheel differentiates the phasing will be lost unlike the Uni joints in a drive shaft whose phasing relationship is fixed once bolted up.
Get the phasing wrong on universals and vibrations etc are an issue.
Birfields and other types of CV are much more forgiving
Last edited by the evil twin; 16th March 2015 at 08:15 PM.
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16th March 2015, 08:12 PM
#18
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17th March 2015, 02:55 AM
#19
Patrol Guru
Hey guys,
Not sure who I'm answering, or in what order, but here goes...
Jacked it up and did the pull/push on the top and bottom of one wheel, and to me, felt there was a little movement.
Checked suspension, nothing loose, all bushes, shocks, etc are all pretty new, only done late last year.
Tyres are all fine and evenly worn and balanced.
King pins, are you meaning the top and bottom bearings on the swivel assembly?
If so, these were included in the hub kit and were replaced.
But problem only came up after hub rebuild and new bearings, so I would think it's isolated to something in that area.
From what was described, the front was pulled apart completely for the swivel hub overhaul, so no tie rod or drag link was left hanging anywhere.
Called them back today, it's going back in Wednesday as I spoke to the boss and he said sounds like the new bearings were nipped up, but not enough, and have settled a bit since I picked up and drove so will need to be rechecked.
I'm hoping that's all it will take...
Thanks guys.
Evo
Cheers,
Evo
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17th March 2015, 07:19 AM
#20
Patrol God
Ok. Defiantly have a look threw the swivel Hub thread and nip up wheel bearings asap.
I'd say they have preloaded bearings full of grease and now the grease has dispersed and bearings have seated properly, making them a little loose.
If you have Allen keys, circlip pliers, and either a 52mm socket or big shifter you can do it. Probably take 3-4 hours being your first crack.
But get onto it before you shag the new bearings.
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