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Thread: Quick Fit Boost gauge adaptor

  1. #1
    Advanced Heavyweight's Avatar
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    Quick Fit Boost gauge adaptor

    http://www.extremelimitsoffroad.com....ew-design.html

    Am looking to buy a Redarc Pyro/Boost gauge.....have searched the web for a view of the Redarc fitting kit apart from the pyro it has included "electronic boost MAP sensor interface"...

    Have no idea what it looks like...

    Will I need "the boost gauge adaptor plate" that is in the link..

    I have read that people are welding bungs or tapping etc.

    Just wanting a quick and easy and neat install

    Thanks

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    Expert Paule's Avatar
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    I have used one on my car, but I've got VDO gauges. I don't think the gauge would make much difference. Unless it is digital then it might be different
    03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    I recently fitted the Redarc Pyro boost gauge,(G52-EB) but was to an intercooled 4.2 not a 3.0. The gauge is supplied from Redarc with a ‘black box’ which gets fitted somewhere inside the car (not in the engine bay). This is referred to as the Boost EGT interface. The lead from the pyro & the hose for the boost connect to it, & a multi pin cable connector connects wires to the gauge. It looks as though the ‘sensor interface’ you linked to is for connecting the other end of the hose inside the engine bay. Whether it’s necessary on a 3.0 litre or not I don’t know. On the 4.2 all that was needed was a T piece (also supplied with the Redarc gauge) cut into a vacuum line at the back of the intercooler.

    I expect someone with a 3.0 will comment where & how they connected their boost hose in the engine compartment.

    http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo...ion_Manual.pdf
    Last edited by Cuppa; 7th March 2015 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Added link

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Expert SG1's Avatar
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    I'm using the QFBA, works well to bring boost to gauge, gauges are auto meter type and keep kicking myself I didn go redarc, dislike the noise from gauge but it works, have inline filters to but does not reduce it enough. If your setting up dawes valve you just put a T piece of the QFBA, works for boost and dawes then.
    02 GU ZD30 Auto, NADS, Setting up for touring and camping, Best thing is the missus loves driving it to..

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    Thanks to all for the information, I was hoping to avoid running thin vacuum hose around the engine and through the firewall (last experiences with that was 30 years ago with my modified Gemini, and it always had kinks in it), I'm sure technology has caught up and I can buy "kink free" vac line...

    Have looked at so many different gauges, Redarc are Frigging expensive, looked at some Mcnally ones from the states, but with the current exchange rate the price isn't much different to Redarc, what put me off further was at the Mcnally checkout they want ed $91 US for postage.

    Was almost tempted by some prosport ones, but since I'm getting a two gauge pillar pod, thought that at least with the Redarc it's a multiple gauge and when I can afford it can get another to fit in the pillar pod, oil pressure, temp, volts etc.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    I love my Redarc gauges. I reckon they look good & are easy to read with my aging eyes. Even my wife’s comment was about how good they looked rather than about what they cost! Having dual function per gauge is good without making them too ‘busy’. (My oil pressure/coolant temp allows for a second temp gauge but I thought having 3 in one might be too busy, & I couldn’t really think of any other temp I thought it worth monitoring)
    .

    One thing to be aware of though is the possible need for the optional ‘Enhanced lighting controller’ (GA-ELC). My car has no dash light dimming so it was essential to prevent being dazzled by bright gauges at night. It also allows for some functions to be set on more than one gauge at the same time (e.g..background colour, night setting etc), but probably not that worthwhile getting unless you need the dimming function, although I think I recall reading some folk have found the level of dimming using the car’s own dimmer has been insufficient. If that were so I guess you could fit the redarc controller at a later date, but it would make wiring easier if you did it from the outset. About $40 extra I think it was.
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    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    just to be different for the pillar pod Id put just boost and EGTs they are the ones you want to see while driving along.
    Volt gauges are there to see the state of charge and the state of your battery, this can be acheived on startup,
    after that Its not essential to read them every 5 mins,
    May I suggest a Baintech volt gauge does the same as most others and doesnt cost an arm and a leg,
    Plenty of room for 2 on the centre dash area, I had a look at the Redarc one this morning way over
    priced too me and they looked cheaply made, plus I dont like the display
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    Last edited by threedogs; 7th March 2015 at 01:03 PM.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    I've had that adaptor since day 1 of having a boost gauge. Good piece of kit.
    2005 TD42TI

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    Thanks.....will at some point use the other pillar pod space for oil pressure/temp gauge....Voltmeter etc will have to wait till I get around to putting the second/dual battery kit in, then will probably go for a digital readout...

    Current 2014 GU doesn't have alot of space to fit stuff, without it looking too busy...20150307_173923[1].jpg

    Have an Ultragauge arriving from the states next week, so that will probably go on the steering column.

    Still need to fit more light switches...

    Maybe an Outback overhead console....and on and on and on and on etc etc etc
    Last edited by Heavyweight; 7th March 2015 at 07:00 PM.

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    I noticed your alpine stereo, the answer may be there!

    I am having a parrot smart installed and at the same time installing an ELM327 OBD2 Bluetooth diagnostic scanner which plugs into the cars computer and delivers straight to an app which gives me all of these readings.

    I'm not that mechanically minded but it is better than nothing.

    Before that I was looking at getting the pillar pod

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