Dawes and Needle valve issues

[mudski]

Drop your max boost pressure on the dawes tad more. This will give you more room to play with the needle valve.

[Dinger]

Righto now I confused I am unable to reduce the boost. The dawes is only on two threads and I am getting 19 psi. The spring looks like it is in pretty good shape not deformed or anything. Should I look at replacing it or the whole valve. I know there are plenty of guys that have got this dialed in without too many issues and I am not mechanically daft but this has me stumped. I am just unsure what to do next is there something I am missing in this process.

[mudski]

What I would do here is, remove the dawes, check the spring again, and make sure the spring is not binding up inside the dawes. Sounds to me it is and its not letting the tension off the spring. When you put it back together, wind the dawes in slow and you will feel the spring in there slipping on the adjuster cap, if it feels notchy, check that the spring hasn't dug a small groove in the body of the dawes causing it to catch. I get quite a few people come to me with issues like this and its just the spring causing is from the constant adjust and re adjust. You'll get it soon enough mate.

[threedogs]

OOI have you stretched the spring in the Dawes valve, if you have try to un stretch it by twisting it slowly.
Also dis connect the battery for a while to re set the ECU.
When winding out the needle valve to set it,, it may take a few turns before the actuator arm drops,
mine did, nearly there you may be only 2 psi away from being spot on lol

[mudski]

OOI have you stretched the spring in the Dawes valve, if you have try to un stretch it by twisting it slowly.
Also dis connect the battery for a while to re set the ECU.
When winding out the needle valve to set it,, it may take a few turns before the actuator arm drops,
mine did, nearly there you may be only 2 psi away from being spot on lol

He's got the new style dawes John. Well they have been around for 18 months or so. The newer style valves run a stronger spring so no need to stretch them anymore.

[Dinger]

Well it is getting closer still a few issues but persistence seems to be slowly paying off.
I removed the whole system this morning with out adjusting the dawes I found a few possible points of failure so I went around with a spanner and tightened all the hose clamps.
As for the actuator on the turbo I get no movement at all with it. It doesn't matter what I try. The only time there is any movement is if I do it manually. It is always hard up against the grub screw .
I am have also disconnected the battery to do a reset. I am starting to wonder if there is a problem with the auto transmission it will let me accelerate revs go up but no increase in speed. Then other times it is definitely limp mode with no increase in revs or power.

[threedogs]

He's got the new style dawes John. Well they have been around for 18 months or so. The newer style valves run a stronger spring so no need to stretch them anymore.

I wasnt suggesting Dinger stretch it I asked if he had then try to "unstretch it"
which with a little persistence is possible on the Dawes [tm] valve

OOI again what year is it and do you have a Tigged or aftermarket IC?

[Dinger]

You crack me up three dogs. In a good way
it is 2006 and I have a HPD intercooler installed in Dec last year.
it ran fine up until I have so e hoses blow off. That was definitely operator error.

[threedogs]

Mine blew the hose off and it ended up being the Crank position sensor.
Funny you said that sometimes I crack myself up too not often though
disconnect the battery for awhile as well,,,,, if its aCRD and
you have the EGR blocked it might need a 10mm hole in it.
but 06 is Di I think yes

[Dinger]

Haha.
Yeah it is a di.
EGR is blocked.
I will keep plodding along and see where I end up.
Going for another test drive now will see how I go.