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Thread: Runva 11Xp Install to Genuine Nissan Bar

  1. #11
    Expert Smoothrun's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone, appologies as I just posted above without seeing your updates on my pc, (didnt refresh it first),

    As stated your all spot on, i need 10mm longer bolts on the top mount, got next 2 days off so ill finish it tomorrow, Im in Berwick Bacho.

    Pics as it looks now

    Attachment 54545
    As you can see Kallen it looks alot better this way around

    Happy with the space for the rope/cable to move around, only a 5mm difference in width overall.
    Attachment 54546

    did you guys leave the rear brackets in or out
    Attachment 54545

    last one shows lhs bracket in front of clutch lever

    Attachment 54547

    Ill do more Pics showing bolt extentions etc tomorrow

    Thanks all, Dave

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  3. #12
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Coming up invalid attachments lol
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  4. #13
    Expert Smoothrun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggqwesty View Post
    Coming up invalid attachments lol
    Must have used up my quota on pics i think, not sure, just tried again with same outcome on this post so I deleted them

  5. #14
    Expert Smoothrun's Avatar
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    Can anyone help with mounting options for the control box, Silly question I have a dual battery setup and just need confirmation that I wire direct to the main Battery not the Aux, also I was supplied an isolator switch but I read somewhere about an easier way by changing the wire (blue) in the control box. I'll try and find it on here tonight. IMO the isolator switches are ok but not reliable due to exposure under the bonnet etc. Ive been through a couple in my time and they were used continuously, unlike these would be.

    If anyone has mounting pics Id appreciate it.

    Cheers

  6. #15
    Patrol Guru Rocket55's Avatar
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    I built a flat bracket that spans the chassis rails above the winch and mounted the control box on that. I think it was the small red wire that goes from the main positive in (from your cranking battery) to the back of the solenoid, I just cut it extended the wires and put a switch in the cab. This way stops everything from working but you still have positive power to the solenoid box so it's possible a vandel could still remove your grill and sort across the terminals to make it work. Low risk in my opinion. Not sure what front and rear brackets you are referring to as I can't see your pics but I have a top view photo of my winch set up with the grill removed in my build so you can see all the brackets that are there.
    Cheers Rod

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    Smoothrun (29th January 2015)

  8. #16
    Patrol Freak Bacho86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoothrun View Post
    Can anyone help with mounting options for the control box, Silly question I have a dual battery setup and just need confirmation that I wire direct to the main Battery not the Aux, also I was supplied an isolator switch but I read somewhere about an easier way by changing the wire (blue) in the control box. I'll try and find it on here tonight. IMO the isolator switches are ok but not reliable due to exposure under the bonnet etc. Ive been through a couple in my time and they were used continuously, unlike these would be.

    If anyone has mounting pics Id appreciate it.

    Cheers
    Yeh I was about to ask if you had any thoughts on mounting options.... That was one that had me stump for a while, I ended up mounting it off the crossmembers for the bulbar

    image.jpgimage.jpg

    What model patrol do you have? I remember from lucus30 couldn't mount his in the same place as mine because the bull bar was slightly different and didn't have as much room.

    I didnt end up installing the isolator switch, it looked like a decent bit of kit (was rated appropritaetly but obviously on the budget side of things), because I couldn't find a nice spot to mount it without stuffing around too much!

    I have considered installing an inline isloator available from road runner, but never got around to it - for know I just disconnect the positive lead when not in use
    2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |

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    Smoothrun (29th January 2015)

  10. #17
    Patrol Freak Bacho86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoothrun View Post
    Thanks everyone, appologies as I just posted above without seeing your updates on my pc, (didnt refresh it first),

    As stated your all spot on, i need 10mm longer bolts on the top mount, got next 2 days off so ill finish it tomorrow, Im in Berwick Bacho.
    I'm in ferntree gully, so if you want to have a look at mine to get a idea your welcome to come around
    2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Bacho86 For This Useful Post:

    Smoothrun (29th January 2015)

  12. #18
    Hardcore lucus30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bacho86 View Post
    I'm in ferntree gully, so if you want to have a look at mine to get a idea your welcome to come around
    Like wise feel free to come round to mine in ferntree gully also. My solenoid is mounted in the bullbar without the cover.

    If you need a hand with anything let me know

    Bacho86 helped me install my winch and crate with the solenoid mounting so happy to return the favour to others

    Also I'd be buying high tensile bolts not stainless.
    Last edited by lucus30; 29th January 2015 at 08:42 AM.
    Lucus30's 1999 GU ST TB45E

  13. #19
    Expert Smoothrun's Avatar
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    Thanks Bacho86, Lucas30,

    Appreciate your invites to view, based on Bacho,s pics I was thinking about doing exactly the same, Im headin over to a mates later in Pakenham as hes a fitter on holidays, not whilst im in need, hes got heaps of plate n scrap steel i could use so ill see how i go there first, gotta pick up new brackets for me cargo barrier after rear drawer build.

    Ps, mines a 2013 gu
    Lifes a journey not a destination.

  14. #20
    Patrol Freak Bacho86's Avatar
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    No worries - biggest thing you'll want to think about when locating the solenoid is that you can still access and move the clutch handle and also access the control box to plug in the winch controller - DO NOT rely on the wireless remote.

    I tried my winch out for the first time properly on Saturday when I was stuck in a slight predicament on the side of a hill, and besides having all the rope run off the drum (no where near as much length as what I expected!) the wireless remote decided to start playing up! Wasn't particularly impressed to say the least
    2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |

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