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28th January 2015, 10:41 PM
#11
Expert
Thanks everyone, appologies as I just posted above without seeing your updates on my pc, (didnt refresh it first),
As stated your all spot on, i need 10mm longer bolts on the top mount, got next 2 days off so ill finish it tomorrow, Im in Berwick Bacho.
Pics as it looks now
Attachment 54545
As you can see Kallen it looks alot better this way around
Happy with the space for the rope/cable to move around, only a 5mm difference in width overall.
Attachment 54546
did you guys leave the rear brackets in or out
Attachment 54545
last one shows lhs bracket in front of clutch lever
Attachment 54547
Ill do more Pics showing bolt extentions etc tomorrow
Thanks all, Dave
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28th January 2015 10:41 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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28th January 2015, 11:48 PM
#12
Patrol God
Coming up invalid attachments lol
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28th January 2015, 11:55 PM
#13
Expert
Originally Posted by
biggqwesty
Coming up invalid attachments lol
Must have used up my quota on pics i think, not sure, just tried again with same outcome on this post so I deleted them
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29th January 2015, 12:05 AM
#14
Expert
Can anyone help with mounting options for the control box, Silly question I have a dual battery setup and just need confirmation that I wire direct to the main Battery not the Aux, also I was supplied an isolator switch but I read somewhere about an easier way by changing the wire (blue) in the control box. I'll try and find it on here tonight. IMO the isolator switches are ok but not reliable due to exposure under the bonnet etc. Ive been through a couple in my time and they were used continuously, unlike these would be.
If anyone has mounting pics Id appreciate it.
Cheers
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29th January 2015, 06:57 AM
#15
Patrol Guru
I built a flat bracket that spans the chassis rails above the winch and mounted the control box on that. I think it was the small red wire that goes from the main positive in (from your cranking battery) to the back of the solenoid, I just cut it extended the wires and put a switch in the cab. This way stops everything from working but you still have positive power to the solenoid box so it's possible a vandel could still remove your grill and sort across the terminals to make it work. Low risk in my opinion. Not sure what front and rear brackets you are referring to as I can't see your pics but I have a top view photo of my winch set up with the grill removed in my build so you can see all the brackets that are there.
Cheers Rod
_______________________________________________
Bitumen ...... Another watse of public funds
My Build 2005 TD42TI
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The Following User Says Thank You to Rocket55 For This Useful Post:
Smoothrun (29th January 2015)
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29th January 2015, 07:03 AM
#16
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
Smoothrun
Can anyone help with mounting options for the control box, Silly question I have a dual battery setup and just need confirmation that I wire direct to the main Battery not the Aux, also I was supplied an isolator switch but I read somewhere about an easier way by changing the wire (blue) in the control box. I'll try and find it on here tonight. IMO the isolator switches are ok but not reliable due to exposure under the bonnet etc. Ive been through a couple in my time and they were used continuously, unlike these would be.
If anyone has mounting pics Id appreciate it.
Cheers
Yeh I was about to ask if you had any thoughts on mounting options.... That was one that had me stump for a while, I ended up mounting it off the crossmembers for the bulbar
image.jpgimage.jpg
What model patrol do you have? I remember from lucus30 couldn't mount his in the same place as mine because the bull bar was slightly different and didn't have as much room.
I didnt end up installing the isolator switch, it looked like a decent bit of kit (was rated appropritaetly but obviously on the budget side of things), because I couldn't find a nice spot to mount it without stuffing around too much!
I have considered installing an inline isloator available from road runner, but never got around to it - for know I just disconnect the positive lead when not in use
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bacho86 For This Useful Post:
Smoothrun (29th January 2015)
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29th January 2015, 07:07 AM
#17
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
Smoothrun
Thanks everyone, appologies as I just posted above without seeing your updates on my pc, (didnt refresh it first),
As stated your all spot on, i need 10mm longer bolts on the top mount, got next 2 days off so ill finish it tomorrow, Im in Berwick Bacho.
I'm in ferntree gully, so if you want to have a look at mine to get a idea your welcome to come around
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bacho86 For This Useful Post:
Smoothrun (29th January 2015)
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29th January 2015, 08:39 AM
#18
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
Bacho86
I'm in ferntree gully, so if you want to have a look at mine to get a idea your welcome to come around
Like wise feel free to come round to mine in ferntree gully also. My solenoid is mounted in the bullbar without the cover.
If you need a hand with anything let me know
Bacho86 helped me install my winch and crate with the solenoid mounting so happy to return the favour to others
Also I'd be buying high tensile bolts not stainless.
Last edited by lucus30; 29th January 2015 at 08:42 AM.
Lucus30's 1999 GU ST TB45E
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29th January 2015, 10:27 AM
#19
Expert
Thanks Bacho86, Lucas30,
Appreciate your invites to view, based on Bacho,s pics I was thinking about doing exactly the same, Im headin over to a mates later in Pakenham as hes a fitter on holidays, not whilst im in need, hes got heaps of plate n scrap steel i could use so ill see how i go there first, gotta pick up new brackets for me cargo barrier after rear drawer build.
Ps, mines a 2013 gu
Lifes a journey not a destination.
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29th January 2015, 11:08 AM
#20
Patrol Freak
No worries - biggest thing you'll want to think about when locating the solenoid is that you can still access and move the clutch handle and also access the control box to plug in the winch controller - DO NOT rely on the wireless remote.
I tried my winch out for the first time properly on Saturday when I was stuck in a slight predicament on the side of a hill, and besides having all the rope run off the drum (no where near as much length as what I expected!) the wireless remote decided to start playing up! Wasn't particularly impressed to say the least
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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