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7th January 2015, 10:53 PM
#11
Patrol Guru
Mine did that once coming up a steep hill out the back of Newnes NSW in 2H on the tar. The hill is probably 500-600m long and steep with lots of sharp corners. All 20-30km/hr stuff. I just left it in "D" with O/D on and let it do its thing, but nearing the top it felt like it went into limp mode briefly. I'm thinking WTF! The car was basically empty. Next time I went up there I turned the O/D off and manually pulled it back to 2nd and had no issues. I've driven this hill a few times now with the latter technique with no issues, of late I've given it a fair booting up the hill to see if it was a heat related thing, no issues.
I've also drive some wicked hills in the Vic HC including 16 Mile Jeep Track (One of the longest steepest climbs I've been on) quite heavily loaded (no trailer) with no issues. O/D off and pull it back to 1st low range.
Coincidence or not, I don't know, but it works for me.
Cheers Rod
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Bitumen ...... Another watse of public funds
My Build 2005 TD42TI
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Bacho86 (8th January 2015)
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7th January 2015 10:53 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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7th January 2015, 11:26 PM
#12
Originally Posted by
Bacho86
I was of the understanding they already had a trans cooler fitted?
They have got a cooler fitted, and unlike some crap cars its independent to the radiator.
I fitted inline after my stock cooler a pwr trans cooler suitable for 8cylinder cars and I think it only cost 80-120$ and is an easy diy
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Bacho86 (8th January 2015)
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8th January 2015, 07:16 AM
#13
Legendary
I think Rocket Rod has hit the nail on the head....
Were you driving it like an Automatic, or were you preselecting gears before you started an ascent/descent?
Mic
GU PATROL 2011 Ti, with goodies...
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8th January 2015, 07:48 AM
#14
Patrol Freak
On serious off road autos are not as "auto" as you think. They tend to change down too late and you lose the revs and therefore also the turbo. You have to select either low second or even low first on a very steep hill. OD should certainly be off.
If you are not sure join a club and do a free course.
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8th January 2015, 08:45 AM
#15
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
happygu
I think Rocket Rod has hit the nail on the head....
Were you driving it like an Automatic, or were you preselecting gears before you started an ascent/descent?
Mic
Thanks rocket and happygu
I had it locked down in 2nd gear low range for the big hill - and at certain points it really struggled I would have thought this be more than sufficient...maybe not?
My dad in his LC105 was doing it in 3rd gear low range and my brother in his hilux 2nd gear as a comparison.
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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8th January 2015, 08:54 AM
#16
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
BillsGU
On serious off road autos are not as "auto" as you think. They tend to change down too late and you lose the revs and therefore also the turbo. You have to select either low second or even low first on a very steep hill. OD should certainly be off.
If you are not sure join a club and do a free course.
Thanks Bill.
I was preselecting gears before tackaling the hills I.e. 2nd gear and low range... For the steepness of the hill and based on experience from other 4wd's I would have thought 1st gear too be too low
Has anyone done any upgrades to their auto boxes to improve gear changes? Like a nomad body upgrade or similar? Are they worth the money?
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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8th January 2015, 09:18 AM
#17
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Bacho86
Thanks rocket and happygu
I had it locked down in 2nd gear low range for the big hill - and at certain points it really struggled I would have thought this be more than sufficient...maybe not?
My dad in his LC105 was doing it in 3rd gear low range and my brother in his hilux 2nd gear as a comparison.
Toyotas are geared a little lower than the Nissan's low range gear ratios, so you can't just compare them side by side .....
I have a manual so I can't tell you HOW to drive the 3 Litre Auto box, but I used to have a TD4.2 Turbo that I could basically nearly let itself idle up a hill in low first, and get out and walk beside it, so getting into the 3 Litre was a bit of a shock to me at first as I kept stalling it trying to drive the same way.
Now I know how the engine works, I never stall it on a hill climb, am always still in full control, and actually think I now drive a little better, but I had to change my driving style to adapt and can't be as lazy as I was ( The old 4.2 would pull out - just - from 1000 rpm so I never had to worry too much ). Now I basically drive to keep the engine in the 2000 - 2500 rev band, back off for the erosion mounds, and stab the throttle at the top of the mound to prepare for the next pitch up as the truck drops into the ditch over the mound, and it is a matter of stabbing the throttle just the right amount to get the engine on boost for the section. Obviously too much means you go too fast and can compromise line picking, and too little means that you may struggle to make it to the next mound.......
Mic
GU PATROL 2011 Ti, with goodies...
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8th January 2015, 10:03 AM
#18
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
happygu
Toyotas are geared a little lower than the Nissan's low range gear ratios, so you can't just compare them side by side .....
I have a manual so I can't tell you HOW to drive the 3 Litre Auto box, but I used to have a TD4.2 Turbo that I could basically nearly let itself idle up a hill in low first, and get out and walk beside it, so getting into the 3 Litre was a bit of a shock to me at first as I kept stalling it trying to drive the same way.
Now I know how the engine works, I never stall it on a hill climb, am always still in full control, and actually think I now drive a little better, but I had to change my driving style to adapt and can't be as lazy as I was ( The old 4.2 would pull out - just - from 1000 rpm so I never had to worry too much ). Now I basically drive to keep the engine in the 2000 - 2500 rev band, back off for the erosion mounds, and stab the throttle at the top of the mound to prepare for the next pitch up as the truck drops into the ditch over the mound, and it is a matter of stabbing the throttle just the right amount to get the engine on boost for the section. Obviously too much means you go too fast and can compromise line picking, and too little means that you may struggle to make it to the next mound.......
Mic
Thanks Mic - appreciate the response, sounds like I will also just need to be adjusting my driving as well!
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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8th January 2015, 10:15 AM
#19
Patrol God
I'd whip the inter cooler off and have a look underneath for oil.
Even being an 08 model it may be leaking, remove clean inside and pump some air with a bike pump with
one end blocked and see if it leaks, If it is leaking it could cause other issues like high EGTs
@ Happy that's exactly what I did with my other 4x4 low low
get out and walk beside tth car waving my arms as if giving instructions
My mates would think who the hell is driving Johns 4x4 after a while we all lol
My auto guy suggested I leave the auto alone as its my daily driver.
a few here swear by it though
Last edited by threedogs; 8th January 2015 at 10:24 AM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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