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My Genie exhaust system has arrived & I’ve realised that if I am going to fit a pyro gauge it would make sense to do this prior to installing the pipe. Because there seems like there is little option to fit the gauge neatly other than a pillar pod it’s looking increasingly likely that I’ll end up fitting two gauges so I don’t have a pillar pod with an empty position.
The two gauges that are currently in my sights are Redarc (previously Autron) LCD items - the EGT & Boost (G52-EB) , and the Oil pressure/Coolant temperature (G52-PWT).
All are supplied with ⅛” NPT threaded sensors.
1. The Genie exhaust has a ¼” BSP threaded Pyro boss. Is it acceptable to use a ¼”BSP to ⅛”NPT adaptor & is there a preferred material for the adaptor? (I’ve only seen brass)
2. Where would I fit oil pressure & coolant temperature sensors on the TD42i? Would I need adaptors to be able to use the ⅛”NPT sensors? (Hoping the air bleed threaded hole on the thermostat housing isn’t needed for the temp gauge as I’m already utilising it for my low coolant alarm)
3. Where does the boost gauge attach to? Is there already a take off point or is drilling & tapping somewhere required?
Last edited by Cuppa; 23rd December 2014 at 10:47 AM.
Reason: Edited for clarity
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
My Autron gauge came with a round metal piece that was threaded to take the pyro. It was welded to the dump pipe just under the turbo. Adaptors would work but the correct fitting comes with the gauge - may as well use it. Good idea to get it welded on to the pipe before the exhaust is installed as (in a ZD30 anyway) its not that easy to get to with a mig once it is fitted. The supplied fitting is steel not brass. Not sure if that makes a difference.
My boost tube fit into my IC. As it is aftermarket it already had an port to screw a barb fitting into. Again - don't know about the 4.2 but for the ZD30 you can get a block that piggy backs underneath the factory boost sensor. Very neat and simple.
Adaptors would work but the correct fitting comes with the gauge - may as well use it.
Thanks, but the point is my new exhaust already has a threaded pyro fitting (steel) welded into the dump pipe but with a larger diameter (¼”) than the Autron/Redarc sensor (⅛”).
No idea if the 4.2 has a factory boost sensor to piggy back off (but I doubt it).
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Cuppa, I'm not sure if it's the best pick up for boost. I put my sensor in the small rubber hose that comes off the back of the intercooler. Put a tee piece in the hose and connected the sensor / sender unit there.
1. Use an adaptor it will be fine. Use a stainless one if you can. Google industrial fitting sales.
2. The factory oil pressure sensor is next to the oil filters and you can use a T piece. You can also use the ports on the passenger side that were used for the vac pump alternators. 1/8 for the oil should be right. Your temp sensor needs to go after the thermostat but before the radiator. I would also recommend moving your low level sensor if this is viable.
3. Boost gauge can go as Macca has described. Or if possible into the intake manifold but maccas idea is fine and is easy.
Last edited by nissannewby; 23rd December 2014 at 11:13 AM.
Cuppa, I'm not sure if it's the best pick up for boost. I put my sensor in the small rubber hose that comes off the back of the intercooler. Put a tee piece in the hose and connected the sensor / sender unit there.
Hi Cuppa
I did the same but make sure hose is firmly secured to tee piece as mine came off recently resulting in no boost. As it is almost out of sight, it is the last hose you look at when trying to find the reason for no boost.
At the end of the day, all you have is yourself and all you need is your friends (and in our case our Patrol)
2006 GUI1 4.2TDi Coil Cab "almost" standard
Cuppa I've looked at drilling and threading the bung as we discussed but after comparing the two I don't think there's enough thickness remaining once done to make it strong enough as you can see in the pic, the whole bung would have to be drilled inorder to thread it. So based on this I'm not going to bother attempting it.
I'll try this mob next week that's around the corner from me and let you know how I go and by the looks they have shops down south also. http://www.indfit.com/product.html
That’s a shame MT. Let me know how you go with Industrial Fitting Sales. That’s the mob Matt suggested. I found their online catalogue http://www.ifsaus.com.au/onlinecat.html but couldn’t find any BSP to NPT adapters in it, but your link suggests they do do them, although based on your pic I’d still wonder if any adapter was going to be lacking in wall thickness. Maybe I need to have another look. I have also asked Redarc if they can suggest a source of adapters (they offer ¼NPT sensors - not sure if this can be screwed into ¼BSP boss?). I will also contact Genie to see what suggestions they have, they must be aware that most sensors have NPT threads & as they choose to install BSP bungs presumably will have had to answer this query from others before. Will keep my fingers crossed that you come up trumps with your enquiry.
Hi Bill, not that simple unfotunately. certainly the bung already welded on could be cut off & a new one welded on, but whether the weld would be any good or not is debatable. The issue is that these are ceramic coated dump pipes we are talking about. At best any welding would destroy the ceramic coating. Besides alteration on a new item like this should not be necessary. I find it hard to believe that we are the first purchasers of a Genie pipe to come across this problem, & suspect there will be a simple, less drastic & locally available solution. I’ll post the question in the Genie section of the forum directing them to this thread, & see what they suggest.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)