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Thread: CTEK D250S Dual

  1. #41
    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Well its all in and connected. I started the car up, lights came up on the ctek, the power light, the alternator light and the service battery light. I checked the charge voltage and the crank battery is getting a charge but the aux isn't. new battery there so maybe its charged enough sitting at 13.5V.... I can't see anything in the three whole pages about voltage cut-off etc etc..
    Ooops my bad, post deleted wrong thread
    Last edited by the evil twin; 1st April 2015 at 09:49 PM.
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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Well its all in and connected. I started the car up, lights came up on the ctek, the power light, the alternator light and the service battery light. I checked the charge voltage and the crank battery is getting a charge but the aux isn't. new battery there so maybe its charged enough sitting at 13.5V.... I can't see anything in the three whole pages about voltage cut-off etc etc..
    If the starter battery is charging or below required volts I think around 10.5v then the ctek will not charge the AUX battery until the starter hits 13.4 or 13.7v just from memory when I had mine in the gq

  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dinger View Post
    If the starter battery is charging or below required volts I think around 10.5v then the ctek will not charge the AUX battery until the starter hits 13.4 or 13.7v just from memory when I had mine in the gq
    Hmm. The alternator is putting in around 14v to the starter battery though. It say I don't need to earth the starter battery to the ctek. Then I see a Youtube vid from Baintech where they say to do...Paranoia is kicking it, again. Lol. Last thing I want is to eff another aux battery and have warm beer.
    Last edited by mudski; 1st April 2015 at 11:20 PM.

  5. #44
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    I would connect Solar, Cranker and Aux (esp if that is the Baintech recommendation) -ve to the Ctek.

    It eliminates any poor earthing or high resistance return.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Hmm. The alternator is putting in around 14v to the starter battery though. It say I don't need to earth the starter battery to the ctek. Then I see a Youtube vid from Baintech where they say to do...Paranoia is kicking it, again. Lol. Last thing I want is to eff another aux battery and have warm beer.
    Mudski, how did you go with this? Looking at getting a D250S soon. I've got a CTEK MXS 5.0 and the thing is brilliant.....
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    2" Toughdog Lift, Ctek D250S, 152AH AGM Battery, Homemade Battery Box, Duel Rear Cameras, GME TX3510W UHF, Alloy Roof Rack, Kings 2.5m Awning, Titan Drawers.

  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubbyr8 View Post
    Mudski, how did you go with this? Looking at getting a D250S soon. I've got a CTEK MXS 5.0 and the thing is brilliant.....
    All fitted up well mate. It works as it should. It was a lot bigger than I though it would have been though. I had it fitted in the engine bay next to the aux battery, but now I am doing the conversion I have removed it for now so theres room in the bay for ease of fitment of the new motor. Well, I removed the entire aux side and all wiring so I will start again once the new donk is in and running. I think I will mount in under the lhs dash somewhere this time, to keep the heat away from it.
    Although I do like the redarc BCDC1225 better, as I have one of those in my camper, this was shite easy to wire up though. Very impressed by this.

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