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Thread: What size drill and tap - NADS

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    What size drill and tap - NADS

    Hi guys and girls.

    I'm starting to think about installing the gauges that arrived last week. I'm just waiting for a gauge pod to arrive so I can butcher it and mould it to the pillar and install them.

    My question is, if you were to buy one size of drill and tap to do the EGT and boost gauge connection would you buy 1/8 or 1/4 BSP? I guess either could work but I'm leaning towards 1/4 BSP as I think it could be more useful for other jobs as well and can use a 1/4BSP to 1/8 hose barb where required.

    Also do I need straight or tapered for the normal fittings that we would need?

    Any thoughts?

    Aaron.

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    Think I might just go and buy this kit for the price.

    SCA Tap & Die Set - 24 Piece, Imperial

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    Quote Originally Posted by TazManiac View Post
    Think I might just go and buy this kit for the price.

    SCA Tap & Die Set - 24 Piece, Imperial
    Not sure if its relavent Aaron, but the set you show on sale does not have any BSP taps or dies. It is NPT. This is a problem with US imperial versus British imperial. BSP is British Standard Pipe thread and is the one used most commonly in Australia. It is also the one most likely to be carried by a repairer (Enzed or Pirtek) and is fairly commonly available. NPT is US National Pipe Thread, and is almost the same but is a different pitch. This means you can screw say a 3/8 NTP into a 3/8 BSP but only two or three turns before it locks up. Most auto fittings even on US made cars are BSP.
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


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    Thanks man. Saved me from a simple mistake. Cheers.

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    My EGT gauge came with a nut to weld on to the exhaust pipe. See if you can get one with yours. It saves guessing and would be cheaper and easier than using a tap. If you were fitting the sensor to the exhaust pipe you would need some sort of nut anyway as the pipe wall would not be thick enough to take a thread.

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    an exhaust place can weld a bung in your exhaust at about 100mm, 150mm post turbo.
    You can also buy an adaptor that fits under your boost sensor , they want $75 for them
    but easy enough to make one from a small block of aluminium or steel.


    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Quick-Fit...item35defeb27f

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exhaust-P...item35d939744d
    Last edited by threedogs; 12th November 2014 at 03:53 PM.
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    I thought the size for the gauges is 1/8 npt
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin07 View Post
    I thought the size for the gauges is 1/8 npt
    I think most are Kev. You can use a bsp bung, like the one in my store that TD has linked to because it's a straight thread in the bung and the fitting is tapered it will still screw in fine. It only becomes an issue when the male and the female thread are both tapered.

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    kevin07 (12th November 2014)

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    Thanks guys. Might take it in to an exhaust place soon then as I guess I can screw the sensor in and wait until the pods arrive to wire it up properly. Might just get them to weld another into the intercooler piping and save me the hassle of buying tools and the trouble of doing it myself. Thanks for the help guys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TazManiac View Post
    Thanks guys. Might take it in to an exhaust place soon then as I guess I can screw the sensor in and wait until the pods arrive to wire it up properly. Might just get them to weld another into the intercooler piping and save me the hassle of buying tools and the trouble of doing it myself. Thanks for the help guys.
    Yes good idea to get it done if you can prior to gauge fitment. I got two put in my intercooler, one for the electronic sensor for the boost gauge and one for the Dawes valve.

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