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Thread: Yep, Another Rear Drawr Build

  1. #21
    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Why would you need to unscrew the top to remove them? Mine have turnbuckles on the back, and bolted in the front from the bottom underneath the drawer.
    Pull draw out, unbolt, remove. Easy.

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  3. #22
    Expert Smoothrun's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, im still thinking bolts but with a screw head which will ensure the slides guide past them, im going down in 20 mins to coventry fasteners and taking a slide with me, i have also made sure i can remove the entire box including draws after detatching the side wings, and from what ive designed i should be able to alse change draws over by just removing them after sliding forward, im still undecided what locks to use for my 2 drawers but need to before deciding on cleat spacing and type, as said earlier ive got a few days to decide to go self locking or non locking on the fridge slide and draw underneath, all my woods cut and im about to assemble thr rhs draw section, once ive done that ill post up a pic if your interested and show you how i intend to lock the lhs draw which sits below the fridge top slide.

    Because the top fridge slide rolls the entire top panel (lhs) forward on the slide im thinking about a locking slide, mount it behind a false facia which you would have seen but exposing the locking lever, my objective is so not to expose the locking lever, then directly above the lever which is around 30mm from top drill a 5mm hole and simply use a pin and push it through the top panel which the fridge sits on and push down forcing the lever to unlock. If that makes sense good otherwise ill have to take pics and draw something up, as i said my objective is to have the entire front panel locking levers not exposed. If i can do it id prefer it otherwise im gunna have to use either a patio bolt type setup like the ORS ones or deadbolt them (unpreferred),

    Cheers

    Dave

  4. #23
    Legendary Rossco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winnie View Post
    Why would you need to unscrew the top to remove them? Mine have turnbuckles on the back, and bolted in the front from the bottom underneath the drawer.
    Pull draw out, unbolt, remove. Easy.
    Yeah thats because yours are as wide as the wheel arches so you can just slide the whole thing out which works well. With mine and kallens the top goes right to the side panels so has to come off to get the drawers out. Not so siuted if you intend to take them out every so often but I dont think ill be taking mine out any time soon

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    BigRAWesty (30th October 2014)

  6. #24
    Legendary Rossco's Avatar
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    Sounds good dave looking forward to seeing it, sounds interesting!! Kind of like outback drawers yeah?

  7. #25
    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossco View Post
    Yeah thats because yours are as wide as the wheel arches so you can just slide the whole thing out which works well. With mine and kallens the top goes right to the side panels so has to come off to get the drawers out. Not so siuted if you intend to take them out every so often but I dont think ill be taking mine out any time soon
    Me either but I suppose I will be thankful if I ever have to.

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    Rossco (30th October 2014)

  9. #26
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Mines been out twice already.
    When I did the lining and will again when I out the tanks in..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    These are the slides I have.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4WD-800mm...item19ce13f43f

    I actually have a pair of those and also a pair of 700mm exactly the same. I have not used them because I ended up buying a set of drawers with the same runners in them.
    I paid $200 delivered for the pair and I'd be happy to sell them for $100 if anybody was interested?

  11. #28
    Beginner Mac73's Avatar
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    great thread guys. I'm in the process of designing drawers for the GU and this has answered a lot of questions for me!
    Part time 4wd'er and fisherman, full time worker, why can't it be the other way?

  12. #29
    Expert Crate's Avatar
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    These are the type I have and I assume smoothrun has also, larger latch and it locks in and out.

    drawer-slide-125-locking_1.jpg
    GQ highmount, lockers, barwork, 3-Link front, long arms, V8, cage, duct tape, cable ties and 35's

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    Smoothrun (31st October 2014)

  14. #30
    Expert Smoothrun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crate View Post
    These are the type I have and I assume smoothrun has also, larger latch and it locks in and out.

    drawer-slide-125-locking_1.jpg
    Hi crate they are exactly the same, although my 3 sets were purchased from UES, the part number at UES is the same as the IRS ones, also my 3 sets are non locking type ( just normal sliding)because i didnt want to expose the levers (personal choice) on the front panels as per Winnie and Rossco, Ive got 2 days to decide to swap one set over, only prob is i only need one side to lock and saying that my idea about hiding the lever would be more open to me, but 2 makes it more difficuilt, i asked if the locking mechs can be removed and the guy at UES said they cant. So i went unlocking type.

    Personally i dont think he could be stuffed grabbin one from out the back to show me.

    Maybe Winnie or Rossco may think different as they have played with theirs.

    Cheers

    Dave

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