Winch drum getting hot just winding rope in and out
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Just looking at the winch still on now before I remove it. In free spool I can now move the drum with a little force. Where as before when I first put it back together, it was quite hard. Maybe the grease has settled more now. I think I will pull it out again and check the brake though. Not that I know what to check for in the brake.
Also the direction I have been winding the rope on is still correct according to the arrow on the winch. Even though its upside down.
When I have rebuilt my winches (about 4 times now ) I have used Lmm and never had a problem.
Just wonder if the grease you are using is creating far too much resistance? When one of my winches grease turned into thick molasses and was hard to turn by hand it got very hot under winching.
Just pull it apart and removed the brake assembly. Quite rusted inside and I take it the three brake pads are supposed to spin inside the drum? They are filthy with rust on them from the inside of the drum.
I think I will just clean the gears out, again and use lmm, I dont realy want to but it will just have to be I suppose.
Bloody hell i just spotted the lhs axle seal is leaking too!
Yeah when I rebuilt mine on the GUIV it looked spotless on the outside and basically brand new but the inside was a different story. Rebuilding a winch it needs to be fully stripped. All good.
Clean out the inside of the drum too just with some emery paper.
Clean it all up and use LMM. Get to know the winch, seal it up, fit a breather hose set highto the gear box and the motor and digit it. Be prepared to strip your winch for a maintenance service once a year or after a big water trip and your all set Mark.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Just need to figure out the best way of cleaning inside the drum. She filthy in there and my fingers are not long enough and the wire brush is useless. I need a small wire well with an extension. I think a trip to Bunnings will sort that out...
Btw is this part supposed to move in two parts? The inside is stuck on the cone. It looks like its supposed to together but just want to make sure...
Bloody MC keeps crashing....
Last edited by mudski; 13th October 2014 at 05:05 PM.
Why are you guys using LMM grease out of curiosity ??? That grease is usually used in ball joints,cv's/ uni's or areas that are slow moving and are under an extreme pressure like earth moving equipment buckets. HTB or other types of hight temp bearing grease won't break down to oil like the LMM will ??
I would have said the gears in the winch are reasonably slow moving and with a Patrol hanging off the end, under a reasonable amount of pressure.
I was originally going to use waterproof marine bearing grease but changed my mind when I got to Repco....
The temperature in the gearbox shouldn't be super high (at least on mine) as the line speed ain't that quick. Most of the heat will be in the motor and the drum (potentially).
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Last edited by Drewboyaus; 13th October 2014 at 06:03 PM.
1997 GQ Patrol RX, TB42E. Mods: OME 2" lift, 33" BFG KM2'S, ARB winch bar & reconditioned X9 Superwinch, IPF 900 spotties HID conversion, ARB side steps and scrub bars, Kaymar rear step & spare wheel carrier & jerry holder, Rear 55W LED worklight, Safari Snorkel, 147L LRA tank, Extended diff breathers, dual batteries, GME UHF, Home built drawer and fridge slide, ARB 60L fridge.
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
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