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Thread: TD42 turbo question

  1. #1
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    TD42 turbo question

    At what revs on a stock Td42i motor does the turbo 'kick in'?
    I have the feeling that not a lot happens until around 2800 - 3000rpm or even a bit higher which seems a bit high up the rev range to me. I cruise along at 95 or 100kph most of the time & find I have my foot heavier on the go pedal in 5th than when in 4th. I would have thought that 5th should give better economy, but it won't if I'm having to use more accelerator. Balanced against this is my belief that lower revs equates to improved engine longevity ...... So I find myself in a quandary ....fuel economy or a longer life for the motor. (4th or 5th at 100kph)

    I know that the weight of the vehicle will have an influence when 'getting up to speed' but I am referring to maintaining speed (with best economy) which is what I thought the 5th gear should be for, but it seems this will only be the case if I increase my cruising speed, which is self defeating as far as fuel economy goes.

    I suppose the reason folks fit bigger bore exhausts is to allow the turbo to kick in at lower revs? Does this allow better fuel economy if the temptation to accelerate & cruise faster is avoided?

    Cuppa

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  3. #2
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    The best thing you could do budget wise, economy wise and boost wise would be to fit a 3" exhaust and dump pipe and get it tuned you will be amazed at the difference. Being in Vic diesel tech would be who I would go and see but I'm unsure of the where abouts in relation to you. They are in lily dale I believe.

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    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    The dullness of these factory motors has more to do with the fuel pump setting than boost. To get boost you need fuel and as your feeling your not really getting enough fuel until its basically too late and that's when your feelin the boost. Getting a tune they alter when the fuel starts delivery and this makes a huge difference to response and what not.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Trouble is as soon as you get a 3" exhaust & dump pipe, someone says "you need" a pyro gauge/better intercooler/bigger bonnet scoop etc etc. I have the sense that any move away from stock sets you on a path of always needing more. I'm not that keen on developing a pyro gauge paranoia/obsession when driving (which seems common amongst those who have moved away from stock equipment & settings) ..... So if I did end up just fitting a 3" exhaust & dump pipe plus a fuel pump tune could I safely just leave it at that...... Or would I need other stuff to be 'safe' bearing in mind it's economy rather than rorty performance that I'm interested in.

    Cuppa

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    If it is economy you are after than nissannewby is right. you will see better economy with those mods. In my ute I have a hevily modified pump pumping in alot of fuel.
    With the 31's on 4 inch lift on my last trip to brisbane I averaged 11L/100 hwy and city driving and at times I was not light on the throttle especially up some of the hills on the hwy

    it gives bigrig the s@&ts I think. My ute has more power and better fuel economy than tank lmao
    Last edited by Ben-e-boy; 13th December 2012 at 09:53 PM.
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    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    A mild tune by a professional and you could get away with not needing a pyro but in saying that once you have a 3" system and tune keeping an eye on a gauge is easily done when the outcome is so good

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    What sort of money would I expect to pay for 3" system plus a 'mild tune'? How much extra for a pyro (egt?) gauge fitted. Ballpark figures?
    Last edited by Cuppa; 13th December 2012 at 11:26 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Hardcore macca86's Avatar
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    I thing egt is about 300. 3 inch system 900 to 1300 pending on what you get not sure on tuning
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    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    That are so common these days a 3" exhaust fitted shouldnt be any more than $1000 and I would expect to pay up to $350 for a good tune. Pyro's arent cheap so prob around 300 fitted for one of these.

  11. #10
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Thanks all, the info has certainly given me food for thought. It's all money, but improved driveability and new rear suspension are both things I think I'll have to bite the bullet on sooner or later.

    Cuppa

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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