Shed buying

[Bob]

PM Sent
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[liftlid]

I would recommend getting the slab done after the permit is signed off, then your granny flat modifications can be done without hindrance, don't forget to build your slab so it will take a hoist

[NP99]

Ballarat could be a good place for the national meet up

[paulyg]

Hey cuppa, I got a Eureka American barn, I chose Eureka because of the full rhs frame, much more ridged than c section.
I did the slab first, much easier to erect with a slab already poured, I would get another no problem.

[threedogs]

Like a good ole Amish barn raising weekend lol,
My 6x5 mtr shed was erected then the slab poured.
but the fall is going the wrong way dab nabit.
did flood but not anymore

[krbrooking]

My brother-in-law used to build sheds over in Perth (never qualified though), I could speak to him and get his input if you like, or I could even give you his number and you can both catch over the phone if you like (pm me). Regarding the concrete I did it for around a year, I would personally concrete the uprights first (like a fence post) and once they are set I would then erect the shed, then pour the slab, especially being the size you are looking at doing. that way you prob won't need footings and so on as the uprights would act as the footings. Regarding curing the slab the longer the better most quality concreters would suggest waiting a month before putting any weight on it, but I have seen them putting walls up as soon as 2 days later (would not suggest that at all). As megatexture said I would go a minimum of 100mm thick and use 25mpa and I would also put plastic. I would also water down the slab for a day or two (especially if it is hot), not so crucial if it is cold and I would also insist on cutting expansions joins as the dummy joins not only collect stuff but this is where most crack will start, that is why they do them so if there is any cracking they will normally follow the dummy join and not go across the slab the other way. Also if you are going to be putting hoists or heavy machinery like lathes or panel saws I would definitely go thicker in the area that they will be going.

[BigRAWesty]

I think it's always cheaper in the end to get the primary company to do the complete install I'd that's the way you go.
The company will not charge as much for erection if they already have the job where as a subbie will want a bit of cream aswell.

In all honesty in the end its your choice. There is nothing wrong with c section columns. I think your right though with final finish..
The father inlaw had his shed erected and the idiots put the flashing on the post and the sheet over top... When pulled up they said that's how they've always done it. Wtf... Issue was resolved and new flashing put over top no cost.

Electrical onnthe other hand may be different. Hunt around wishbone subbies for quotes and compair to the manufacturer..

There are many variables, and unfortunately being a custom shed it's gunna cost more.

[Bob]

I would pour the Slab first with the Footings built into the Slab with a Lip around the outside for the Cladding to recess into.
Just make sure that the cladding does not touch the Concrete as it will void your Warranty with BHP.

[Cuppa]

Thanks everyone, I’ve had some good advice both here, via PM’s & on the phone. I’m pretty sure I know who I’ll be going with now, & probably will go for the complete install.

Paulyg, I also liked the RHS & bolted apex of the Eureka sheds, & have a friend & his son who also tell me they are happy with them (a mate of the son puts sheds up for Eureka), however I have also heard many stories of ‘customer relation problems’ & difficulty getting problems resolved with them. Enough to be a worry.

Krbrooking & MT, I will specify 25mpa. All shed places except one said they would build on the concrete (including using a scissor lift) a week after it was put down. Ranbuild said not before 3 weeks. One place, when they told me a week & I asked if I were able to specify a longer period said “No”! Chances are that we will be into hot weather before the concrete goes down so I will make sure plastic to cover it is supplied & that I have sufficient hose extensions to allow me to wet it down.
Regarding cutting expansion joins - would these be through the full depth of the slab? If so wouldn’t there be a potential problem caused by exposing the reo? I thought you either had the dummy joins cut in after the slab was down, or the slab was laid in sections with expansion joints (foam or rubber) between the sections?

Bob, I do prefer the idea of the slab & footings going down together first. I had been thinking of using the stepped vermin/ember seal around the base of the cladding.

TD & NP, Amish style sounds good, but would require at least one person who knew exactly what needed to happen & when, & I’m not convinced that’d be me. Good chance I’d end up with a committee built shed! LOL.

Liftlid, no plumbing will occur until after sign off. Shower base can be accomodated on a raised plinth. How much extra depth of concrete would be required to go under a hoist? Hoist or a pit would be nice, but just having a smooth flat floor which allows for a decent trolley jack & use of a creeper trolley would be a luxury compared to what I’ve been used to.

Kallen, interesting that you say that what appears to be the most expensive option at the outset is likely to be cheaper in the end. Given that I think that’s the way we’ll go, your comment makes deciding to do so a bit easier.

[Bob]

Some Pics of a C Section Shed which by the way is our own design (I used to have a Shed Company in the dim dark past)