Shed buying

[megatexture]

You dont cut right through its say 1/3rd of the thickness of the slab and also make sure they put the rio on hats.

[MudRunnerTD]

Check you local council requirements for the slab on ground. There are some big differences. Some will say that if the slab is poured first and then the columns stood on the slab it is deemed a Raft Slab and may require edge beams and internal thickening and if the columns are built on pad footings and the shed stood then the Infill slab the infill slab requires no engineering and the final inspection and Certificate of Occupancy (CofO) before the slab is poured.

Send Plassy a pm, he is a Building Surveyor and could shed some light or just call Council and ask them what their local requirements are.

I recommend at least a 100mm slab and at least Y72 mesh. Demand that the mesh is placed on chairs and NOT walked in. This is a fail and will leave the mesh on the bottom of the slab. The design of a slab needs that mesh in the middle not in the last 20mm.

Make sure you have the expansion joints cut as soon as possible. Saw cut for the win. Make sure they are oly 20mm deep and do not cut the mesh or your waiting you time. It will be a train wreck within a year.

Make sure the concreter is not expecting to just float off and go. A slab that big needs a few goes on the helicopter for a great looking slab.

If you can a 300mm wide edge maybe 200mm thick will also help the slab in the long run. For the sake of a few dollars now the long term benefit will be worth it. A shovel wide thickening around the edge will really stiffen thing up.

Plastic underneath for sure. It is a Moisture Barrier and will stop moisture sucking up through the slab, it will stop rising Salt also.

As Bob noted. The warranty on any colour bond product is Void if laid in contact with Concrete. If they pour the slab within the sheeted shed either paint bitumen barrier or place expansion joint foam around the base of all the sheets before pouring.

I highly recommend J.H. Stephens Pty Ltd in Geelong for a very high quality shed at your end of the market. Your shed is nt a domestic, its an industrial.

C channel wall and roof purlins rather than Top Hats. Have the roof insulated during installation for the win.

As noted. If your even thinking about installing a Hoist down the track think about it now. Some local thickening in the slab to bolt to will be awesome.

As Gary noted if you do the slab as an Infill after CofO you can add you toilet and ablutions without the need to add them to your building permit. Unless your shed is close and the plumbing is close and your going to pay a plumber to sign it off then it will do your head in.

Doing it as an Owner Builder really is No Big Deal. Assuming that the Shed supplier is presenting you their preferred contractor to erect the shed your on a winner. They know each other. They know how their sheds work and how to build them. Going as an Owner Builder just makes the Insurance etc much easier to deal with. It's a Shed. As an Owner Buolder you will have to Warrant the structure for 10years. build only. Manufacturers warranty still applies.

[paulyg]

I am in the same council area as you cuupa, I poured the slab first, my barn is 11m x 18m, they wanted at least 100mm thick slab with 400mm x 300mm footings for the columns. may vary depending on soil type.
I have had no problems dealing with Eureka Sheds in Ballarat,