Leaking inter cooler

[Emcamonhols]

Hi guy,
I have an 05 Patrol, 3ltr crd. The intercooler seems to be leaking in the bottom drivers side corner.
1. Can I get it repaired, if so where?
2. Cost of a OE replacement, cheapest?
3. After market replacement, cost and where?

Car has 3 inch exhaust and snorkel fitted.
Thanks Cameron.

[Hodge]

Hey mate. I don't think they can be fixed, cheaply anyway. Best bet is to grab a upgraded tig welded unit like a diesel smart unit. I have one and it was under $500 on exchange basis. Made a bit of a difference on the EGT's as well.
By the way your 05 will not be a CRD, it will be a Di engine. CRD's emerged in 07. Make sure you get the right one as they are different intercoolers.

[threedogs]

X 2 dont repair your OE IC get yourself a fully tig welded one,
also fit a Provent catch can and other NAD mods.
Have a search plenty written on the subject
Edit pic is of my Di intercooler

[Emcamonhols]

Thanks guys, have ordered a new I/C from Diesel Smart, $495 plus postage. You are correct mine is DI not CRD, doh!
By the was what is a catch can and NAD things mean?
Thanks, Cameron

[mudski]

Hi Cameron. A Catch can is a filter that goes "in line" on the hose that goes from the top of the motor and back to the air intake pipe, just before it bends downward towards the turbo. What it does is filter the crank case vapours of the oil before it returns back into your air intake.
NADs stands for Nissan Anti Detonation system.
Incase you are not aware. These 3Ltr motors were and still are notorious for blowing up or "grenading". Usual thing is they melt one of more pistons, maybe crack the head while its at it. In the cases I have seen, and heard, it will usually happen whilst at cruising speed, 100kph. Because the ECU is fantastic at controlling boost pressure (insert sarcasm), it will under boost your motor when your sitting at around 2400rpm at 100kph. Now, too little boost at certain revs will equate to higher EGT's, or exhaust temperatures. Higher EGT's equals higher cylinder temps, too high cylinder temps and boom. Pistons will crack, melt, whatever...
There is many factors that may be involved with the grenade dropping its pin, other people have their own theories in why. I have seen two motors stripped down, both suffered the same fatal ending, both had almost identical engine damage and one of the motors was at a workshop and the mechanic said the pistons where way too hot for too long, thats why it failed.

So what the NADs consists of is...

• Dawes Valve - This is a mechanical valve that is used to take away the ECU's control of boost pressure.
• Needle Valve - This is used in conjunction with the Dawes. This valve lets you decide on the spool up rate of your turbo, also taking away the ECU's control.
• EGR plate - Blocking the EGR is an illegal mod to start. But what your egr does is redirect a portion of hot exhaust gases back into your air intake. You are thinking I have a snorkel, my motor will be sucking in nice and clean fresh Mansfield air. Nup. Its also sucking in a portion of hot and dirty exhaust. Eventually if you don't block the EGR your intake manifold will suffer from Cholesterol. The carbon in the exhaust gas, mixed with the oily crank case vapours sticks to the inside of the manifold and bit by bit, decreases the manifold internal size. Making it harder and harder for your car to breath.

They would be the three minimum items I would do to a 3Ltr Grenade. Mind you if the damage is already done, the NAD's won't help. Only prolong the inevitable. There are so many other mods that others would include in the NADs list. I would too but this is a start, that for sure.

[Emcamonhols]

Thanks for that , have spoken to Tim at 4x4s and organised the three NAD's as suggested . Wills see how it goes.

[Heinzy]

That Ic looks better