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Thread: Temperature sensor problem (unsolvable)

  1. #1
    Beginner oldcrazyman's Avatar
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    Temperature sensor problem (unsolvable)

    G' Day mates, we got a strange problem with a TB42:
    The problem is to start engine when it's hot or cold too. When cold with the temperature sensor plugged needed 7 or 8 quick contacts on the starter. If the engine doesn't starts it needs to unplug the temperature sensor.
    When the engine running its engine revs are under 500 rpm. Then after a moment rises above 1000 rpm and then stabilized at 750rpm when engine hot.
    Hot starting with temperature sensor connected is almost always ok but the engine rpm is much under the 500rpm, the engine growls and you have to play with the throttle to get to 750rpm.
    When you are moving the engine is fine but after a sudden slowdowns, with heavy use of the brakes or scaling gear, the engine revs drop under 750rpm and if pushing throttle the car doesn't moves, it growls, and it tends to go off.
    You have to play with throttle or change in N to have a response of the engine and come back at 750rpm needed to run the car.
    The diagnostics checking says always error code 13 = engine temperature sensor circuit.
    Replaced one by one the following parts:


    - 3 temperature sensor

    - 2 throttle sensor throttle body

    - 2 airflow sensor

    - inlet duct

    - auxiliary air control (ACC)

    - fast idle compensating device (FICD)

    - Fuel pressure regulator

    - wiring connectors (all)

    - termometer

    - ECU

    the error 13 still there! (note: all the replaced parts come from another nissan Patrol same model working perfectly).
    On the working Nissan has been replaced the components with (supposed) problems coming from the "broken car" and it still to run perfectly.
    At the replacement of the ECU the diagnostics test gave code 55 = all ok. But the start was still difficult. Re-checked, after starting, the diagnostics test and reappeared error 13 ....
    All the masses of the engine have been checked and are ok.
    We worked on (with a friend) for a whole weekend and no solutions...!
    A big big thanks to everybody can help us!

    Nim & Gus
    Last edited by oldcrazyman; 21st August 2014 at 01:58 AM.

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  3. #2
    Beginner oldcrazyman's Avatar
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    I found this guy with a similar issue but not solution for him too:
    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...erature-Sensor
    Gus, the oldcrazyman[COLOR="White"].............[/COLOR] GR Y60 4.2 EFI LWB auto, [B]The Pequod 2[/B]

  4. #3
    Expert Col.T's Avatar
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    Hullo Gus.
    You're a long way from Oz aren't you.
    Sorry you've got no response so far and I'm not able to help as I have no experience with error codes except once and I got the dealer to fix it.
    Makes sense that if the action you've taken is correct for the error code as read, then the trouble should be gone.
    PERHAPS the code is not as you've read or for your model, that code means something different. Sounds silly I admit but your trouble persists.
    Maybe worth spending time searching the web for that code on the chance that some other error could be indicated. Searches under 'engine error code 13' or similar, with or without car make and model pull up lots of results. I know some codes are supposed to be universal but I suspect 13 may not be.
    Again sorry for nothing positive.
    Good luck and welcome to the Ivory Coast,
    Col

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    Beginner oldcrazyman's Avatar
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    Hi Col.T,
    thank for you opinion, I searched on Google but all the Nissan Cars, from 4x4 to berlina, the error code 13 is ECT sensor...

    Probably, we r thinking, all the 3 sensors we changed were faulted, and for a strange case, the other Patrol starts with no problems (detail: the second Patrol can't move, cuz the frame is rotten, so we can't test it on moving).
    We r searching a 4th sensor to try with, and may be we buy a new one on ebay...
    Gus, the oldcrazyman[COLOR="White"].............[/COLOR] GR Y60 4.2 EFI LWB auto, [B]The Pequod 2[/B]

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    Expert Col.T's Avatar
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    G'day again Gus.
    Still I'm no use, sorry.
    Seems to me though that if all the replaced parts worked perfectly on the other wagon then regardless of the code, the problem must be elsewhere. You replaced the temp. sensor three times? Maybe two were no good but if one was proven OK on the other car, how can that be the trouble?
    I've not worked on a petrol engine for over 20 years and that was before on board diagnostics. Should you start looking for really dumb things now?????
    Badly fitting connectors? Cracked/faulty/pinched wires? Poor insulation, bad earthing somewhere?
    Hope someone else can join in but those problems seem a bit confusing.
    Good luck
    Col.

  7. #6
    Expert Kelvinator's Avatar
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    Try swapping the wiring loom from the donor car. No other suggestions though, electrical gremlins are my bane.
    Flip er on er wheels, she'll run!
    4.2 Diesel GQ 4" King'n'ProComp Lift, 33's, Gu steer box conversion, custom drawers and a heavy right foot. Turbo kit, quarter chop and a heap of barwork coming very soon!
    A BIG thanks to Johnny at Repco Northside Rocky for always sourcing me the gear and parts I need ASAP You've saved me many times.

  8. #7
    Beginner oldcrazyman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvinator View Post
    Try swapping the wiring loom from the donor car. No other suggestions though, electrical gremlins are my bane.
    Already done Kelvin, thanks (wiring connectors - all).
    For u guys is it possible that all the 3 sensors we changed are all fault, but for a "mysterious" mechanical conjunction on the other patrol they work?

    Just trying to understand if it's the case to buy a new sensor or to search an other solution...
    Gus, the oldcrazyman[COLOR="White"].............[/COLOR] GR Y60 4.2 EFI LWB auto, [B]The Pequod 2[/B]

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    Expert Kelvinator's Avatar
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    I would highly doubt it. I would suspect that there is either a part in the the engine temperature circuit that you are unaware of, that the computer talks to that you possibly wouldn't think of. Or that the code being thrown up is irrelevant, that something else is faulting out and showing up as a fault through the temp circuit. As in a temperature so high or so low somewhere or a reading that the ecu believes is so wrong it has to be a fault.

    I have also once had a voltage/earth issue that threw up a fault code so wrong it stuffed me round for days trying to find out what was really going on.

    Unfortunately I don't know the petrol patrols enough to help much further.
    Flip er on er wheels, she'll run!
    4.2 Diesel GQ 4" King'n'ProComp Lift, 33's, Gu steer box conversion, custom drawers and a heavy right foot. Turbo kit, quarter chop and a heap of barwork coming very soon!
    A BIG thanks to Johnny at Repco Northside Rocky for always sourcing me the gear and parts I need ASAP You've saved me many times.

  10. #9
    Patrol Freak kevin07's Avatar
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    in my short experience with these sensors that coolant temp sensor is a big one as per attachment from bigrig. DONT USE AFTER MARKET SENSORS USE GENUINE ONLY.
    07 crd,,bridgestone 697lt, 2.75 buedesert ex, SOLD theres a lot of my blood, sweat and money in that troll.


    92 gq ti tb42efi my brothers gq extractors dual batteries brake controller uhf alloy bullbar SOLD with a heavy heart but gone to a nice young fella


    13 y62 the beast that burbles

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    Beginner oldcrazyman's Avatar
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    there is one thing sounds strange in the coolant circuit: the water in the radiator goes down (for a normally usage), but it doesn't takes the coolant liquid from the coolant tank...How this is possible? (The rubber tube from coolant tank to radiator is free and clean)
    I noticed that few days ago. Water in radiator goes down, water in coolant tank doesn't...
    Last edited by oldcrazyman; 27th August 2014 at 08:11 AM. Reason: details
    Gus, the oldcrazyman[COLOR="White"].............[/COLOR] GR Y60 4.2 EFI LWB auto, [B]The Pequod 2[/B]

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