Lifting the Jayco Swan

[gaddy]

We got the camper about 10 years ago , and while it had served us well for gping to Fraser , straddie etc . I have always wanted to rebuild the chassis , lift it up and make it capable of more remote touring ,
Started by pulling the old torsion suspension out , after 20 + years it was knackered , then added 75 × 75mm 3mm wall box to the chassis to strengthen the chassis , then added 2000KG eye to eye springs , 6 stud hubs , and new axle , the draw bar was then modified at the tow point to both strengthen and lower the tow point (see photo ) and then lengths of 5mm × 50 mm flat spring steel has been welded on edge under the drawbar from the chassis to the tow point to further strengthen , the spare wheel has been moved to the front , there is two more water tanks going underneath , to give 3 x50lt tank's , the rear bar has not been done yet as in the future I want to be able to mount a folding trailer , for when I get a 3,5 m tinny to go on top of the camper .

As I had the steel and a mate to do the welding it has cost bugger all
Hubs and bearing $120
Springs , hangers , shackles $ 400
Considering you can pick these older on road campers up for around 2-5 grand it makes a cheap comfortable camper

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[Cuppa]

Considering you can pick these older on road campers up for around 2-5 grand it makes a cheap comfortable camper

We saw a number of similar Jayco’s in remote areas. The advice often bandied around that buying a well used & modified model will get you something ’sorted’ & far better set up for that sort of travel than new ones applies particularly well to these Jaycos.

One question though: doing what you’ve done I’m sure you considered fitting shock absorbers & I wonder why the decision not to? I’m asking this as I have a future small off road trailer project in mind & am aware that ‘gurus’ like Collyn Rivers suggest that shocks, whether fitted with leaves or used with coil independent suspension is the single major factor in prevention of trailer suspension/chassis breakage when used extensively on corrugated outback roads.

[briscott]

I have always wanted to rebuild the chassis , lift it up and make it capable of more remote touring

Looks great, do you have an annexe for it? If you do, will it reach the ground?

[gaddy]

We saw a number of similar Jayco’s in remote areas. The advice often bandied around that buying a well used & modified model will get you something ’sorted’ & far better set up for that sort of travel than new ones applies particularly well to these Jaycos.

One question though: doing what you’ve done I’m sure you considered fitting shock absorbers & I wonder why the decision not to? I’m asking this as I have a future small off road trailer project in mind & am aware that ‘gurus’ like Collyn Rivers suggest that shocks, whether fitted with leaves or used with coil independent suspension is the single major factor in prevention of trailer suspension/chassis breakage when used extensively on corrugated outback roads.

Yes shocks are going in , just got to wait till the mrs gives me some more funds to spend !

[gaddy]

Looks great, do you have an annexe for it? If you do, will it reach the ground?

Yes and not a chance with the full annexe , but also have a new model jayco bag style one off a mates that I got before he sold his factory jayco offroad camper
But for beach camping I'll dig some holes for the wheels to drop into , the step is also pretty much usless as well lol

[Cuppa]

Yes shocks are going in , just got to wait till the mrs gives me some more funds to spend !

Just as you are looking forward to more funds, I’ll look forward to seeing pics of your shock mounting.

Off topic a bit, but......
The project I have in mind is for an off road ‘towable bedroom’, smaller than a teardrop (no kitchen, just the sleeping area), wheel track & wheel size the same as the Patrol, built as light as possible, probably using fibreglass sandwich panel glued together (no fasteners). Apart from the fact that there will be a steep learning curve involved in designing & constructing with this material, (see http://vlp.homestead.com/index.html ) the thing that I am struggling to get my head around is how to determine spring & shock rates. I know these are determined by the weight of the trailer, but what do you do when you don’t know what the trailer weight will be....... such conundrums do my head in!

[gaddy]

Just as you are looking forward to more funds, I’ll look forward to seeing pics of your shock mounting.

Off topic a bit, but......
The project I have in mind is for an off road ‘towable bedroom’, smaller than a teardrop (no kitchen, just the sleeping area), wheel track & wheel size the same as the Patrol, built as light as possible, probably using fibreglass sandwich panel glued together (no fasteners). Apart from the fact that there will be a steep learning curve involved in designing & constructing with this material, (see http://vlp.homestead.com/index.html ) the thing that I am struggling to get my head around is how to determine spring & shock rates. I know these are determined by the weight of the trailer, but what do you do when you don’t know what the trailer weight will be....... such conundrums do my head in!

One of the reasons I went for the springs I did is if I found it to be to hard riding I can remove a leaf if needed , as for the shocks , they are only to prevent rebound , ie the trailer from bouncing not take load so to my way of thinking a set of front shocks of a small car should work , as long as they are of the correct length not to bottom out or over extend , I toyed with the idea of independent coils , but figured it a waste of money as single axle trailers , don't drop a wheel so to speak , the whole trailer rocks instead , the shock mounts will be off the fish plates at the bottom of the spring to the chassis

[BigRAWesty]

Gaddy good build. Looks like a nice upgrade. The only pic I can make is a rather plug one though.. (and it may just be picture angle)

The draw bar extension to me will not last. You should run the 100 x 100 atleast a few cross members past the front if the van..
As it sits I can see it tearing the back end of the shs out along the top due to the leverage weight...

Imo cut off the short bit and install a single peice.
If it is already right threw my apologies as the pic is difficult to tell..

The front tongue attachment is a bit agricultural but I think will be up to the job.

Apart from that small thing mate good job

[gaddy]

Gaddy good build. Looks like a nice upgrade. The only pic I can make is a rather plug one though.. (and it may just be picture angle)

The draw bar extension to me will not last. You should run the 100 x 100 atleast a few cross members past the front if the van..
As it sits I can see it tearing the back end of the shs out along the top due to the leverage weight...

Imo cut off the short bit and install a single peice.
If it is already right threw my apologies as the pic is difficult to tell..

The front tongue attachment is a bit agricultural but I think will be up to the job.

Apart from that small thing mate good job

Thanks

Some more on the draw bar and tow point , it is agricultural but functional , its hard to photograph , some more photos of the rear of the extension , the extension is made long so as the big barn door can be opened , while hooked up ,
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[HuskyInAuz]

Cuppa,
Lessons learned on this short trip. Agree, reverse commute never again with the crowds. small caravan but with a small cafeteria seating area and bunk, kitchen outdoors, offroad with a reasonable support tug. I'm thinking alot about an all ally chasis an ally honeycombed structure for strength and insulation. The internet service here is poor will write more l8r